Weak 3 finger drag reddit Just pull on the juggiest slots on your hangboard w/ 3 finger drag and you will make progress even if you can't quite lift yourself off the ground. It didn't occur to me that there was anything different about 4 fingers drag on a hold and 3 finger open and that held my recovery back for a long time. It seems like your open hand position (3 finger drag but also 4 finger open) is super weak and you are way more often using a near maximal force to stay on which gets you pumped quicker. Hey all, I've just started trying to train the 3 finger drag, and have always heard that 20mm is the best training edge. Back three is super ergonomic for me, whereas front 3 feels almost impossibly unergonomic on any edge size. The Real Housewives of Atlanta The Bachelor Sister Wives 90 Day Fiance Wife Swap The Amazing Race Australia Married at First Sight The Real Housewives of Dallas My 600-lb Life Last Week Tonight with John Oliver In practice, the changes I made meant adjusting 3 things for me: Deload week with a 3:1 ratio. My 3FD is about 70% as strong as my crimp We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I'm using Fedora (Hyprland). It's definitely not like Apple trackpads, though given that you plus many others have this, I can't imagine this is a defect and it's probably intended? Picture one is a "3 finger drag" kinda, if it was weighted you'd see a more flexion through all three dip joints, and your thumb being engaged would virtually never happen on a vertical ledge since that's mechanically disadvantageous. Just train half crimp, 3 finger drag (you actually don’t have to crimp at all, Dave Macleod uses 3 finger drag as his main grip for example and he climbs really hard), or both. When I got back up to bodyweight I did a cycle of 10sec hangs at bodyweight twice a week Week 1, 3 sets Weeks 2/3, 4 sets Week 4, 5 sets That left me at 100% around four months later and I actually came out of it with a much stronger drag grip. ms/AAd5e6n Now what? Any more finger training stimulus is wasted in terms of finger strength gains (you've already hit the 3 FT for the week, and more just won't speed things up)-- and you're at your very limits of recovery (lower quality sessions/higher chance of injury). I’ve been climbing 3. I used to hang +50 lbs open hand but could barely do bodyweight The index is the main differentiating finger between 4 fingers pseudo-open, and a strict half crimp, - The other fingers go where they want; Middle and Ring fingers can go above the edge/be slightly/moderating more in the direction of full crimp. I also included other grip types like open-handed and 3-finger drag. Currently taking some time off and doing light exercises (reverse wrist curls). Switch3 finger swipes down with 3 fingers (mission control, app expose) to 4 finger swipes and then go into: Try to hold your mouse with the tip of your fingers and drag click with your pointer. In all seriousness in my case when I say drag I'm talking about the 3 finger drag specifically, and when I say open-hand positions I'm normally talking about all grip types except half and full-crimp (3 finger drag, "quarter" crimp, holding slopers, pockets etc) I’ve heard it’s due to differing finger length. The setting names vary based on the version of macOS you're using: Choose Apple menu > System Settings (or System Preferences). Turn on This post could have been written by me a few years ago. Really try and focus and you will get better at it, and it will help your fingers I heard something on a podcast about weak wrists leading fingers to do extra work providing stability that should be handled by the wrist. 5s at 90°, 0 seconds with thick band at full lock. Click Accessibility. Recently I enabled 3-finger drag and it’s been a game changer, improving my interactions with MacOS a lot easier and smoother. And then this week I have gone back to some medium intensity climbing in big holds/jugs/using 3 drag, but having minimum 48-72 hours rest between sessions. I'm not talking about the grip style. As the hold gets larger, the discrepancy becomes less apparent. You can move the mouse vertically up and down with your fingers quite well, but side to side is minimal comparatively, but high sens allows for that minimal side to side movement to be magnified and more useful in fast paced games. Note that I can set the 3 fingers tap as mid-button click in windows setting, but I can't set the 3 fingers drag as mid button "click and drag" (aka, holding mid mouse button). Do open hand and half crimp. Getting your pinky on a hold forces your other fingers to bend more, so a 4 finger open hand is better described as an open crimp, somewhere in between a true open hand and a half crimp. I know Hyprland is primarily keyboard driven, but for those times when I need a mouse, I wanted three finger dragging ability. The 3 finger open hand grip feels more comfortable but weaker since there is no pinky. I’m interested in the usefulness of training 3 finger drag vs just training a 4 finger open position and a more strict half crimp. Only took a couple sessions for me to be able to hang on slots, then slowly work to smaller ledges. The ability to drag items using a three-finger gesture is an option for trackpads that support Force Touch. Hello. Hi all, Looking for some advice. In macOS there is an option, where you can use 3 fingers to drag windows around instead of double tapping to move them around or clicking on window tab to move them. He noticed that due to ulnar nerve impingement, I subconsciously split my elbow out further on one side than the other which then forced the index finger away from the I can't even 3 finger an 8mm edge but I can crimp the fuck out of it with +. Regardless of the trackpad sensitivity setting, there's a certain distance (3-5mm) that your finger has to travel before the trackpad activates. Hence the lockoff training. So I love gestures and I've noticed one which doesn't seem to be a common thing and that's '3 finger drag' which is hidden away in the accessibility settings. Pre-injury, I favored a 4 finger grip and would even have said that my 3-finger drag was a weakness. I can only hang 10kg for front 3. These results make sense given the joint angles/muscle lengths at play. The specific loading of pulleys will depend on relative finger lengths. In my experience, only using one grip or at least only training it contributes to tweakiness. It seems like most good climbers I see get more power from half crimp and full crimp. I was climbing last week and when doing a pretty hard climb (for me) I ended up in a position supporting most of my bodyweight with a 3 finger drag. Coming from MacOS, this is one feature I really missed. I already figured out how to use 4 finger gesture instead of 3 with gnome tweak extensions. In addition, I train wrist flexion/sloper strength that I didnt do before. Reply reply Drag grips (3 and 4 finger) where your joints are in slight flexion will be the safest, like grabbing a watermelon sloper. The drag improved quickly, was my strongest grip overall, and transferred very well to pockets. The GNOME Project is a free and open source desktop and computing platform for open platforms like Linux that strives to be an easy and elegant way to use your computer. I have huge pain when dragging (basically can put zero weight on it), yet crimping is fine. Aug 25, 2019 · Light high rep finger curls after climbing and/or light 3 finger drag; Mobility work in hot water bath or hot tub once a day; Extensor strengthening, if it helps; Massage, if it helps; Finger tip pushup supports hold (just holding the top position) with straight fingers. You could do that every day probably. Nov 10, 2024 · Like you, when I was younger I could crimp for days, but eventually I popped a pulley, recovered and carried on with growing niggles on my other fingers and growing time off. wow this seems so obvious but is really helpful! i hurt my hand moving quickly above a three-finger pocket a few weeks ago - heard/felt a little crunch in the base of my ring finger, but wasn't sure what happened. Yeah, 3 finger drag took a lot of pressure off my finger joints too. I would also recommend training two finger drag first honestly because the weak point in your three is going to be your ring finger most likely so get that up to a decent level. Trying to hang on a more open crimp / 3 finger drag causes my wrists to instantly pop out, even on no-hangs or extremely light weight. I can hang +15/+20 back 3 for 10 seconds. You will injure yourself eventually guaranteed. I recommend a max hang protocol using an edge that allows an open hand or 3-finger drag position (often about 20-30mm) with 4-6 rounds of 10 second holds. A week ago I was dragging on a climb and felt a “stretching” feeling and injured some muscle to do with my ring finger. Pinky is the only one that can drag (depends on finger/hand anatomy). With a 3 finger grip the forces on the 3 hyperextended fingers are relatively equal -- this highlights the inherent weakness of the ring finger forcing you to work it. Click Pointer Control (or Mouse & Trackpad). My strength levels: Max hang: 45lbs added 10s 20mm half crimp, 26 lbs 10 s 20mm 3 finger drag. If you do a 3 finger drag, it's possible to have completely straight PIP joints on at least 2 of the fingers. In a 20 mil one arm hang I can add roughly 25 lbs more to 3 finger drag than half crimp, so I have a weak half crimp compared to other grips, but I don't half crimp very much on the wall. . - In a crimp position, contact friction is dominated by the force pulling into hold and this force is maximized as you minimize contact area, So you aren't taking advantage of the friction of your skin at all. I keep forgetting this because I think that my strongest grip is probably a 4 finger drag which is somewhere between an open 3 and half crimp. I think I started at 45lbs off with pulleys, adding 5 back in every session. Did you forget to mention the repetitions? :D In case that is really your workout, that would be extremely low volume. 3 weeks at normal/high intensity and 1 week chilled For a few years I thought that 6:1 would be fine for me, it wasn't Fixed finger warmup routine before any warmup climbing (indoors is easy, outdoors I'm still adapting to it) The Real Housewives of Atlanta The Bachelor Sister Wives 90 Day Fiance Wife Swap The Amazing Race Australia Married at First Sight The Real Housewives of Dallas My 600-lb Life Last Week Tonight with John Oliver You’re right about 3 finger drag it does have slightly better reach. Make sure you're not bending at the MCPs of any fingers. Even more complicated is I have come across some discussion (via some of the Lattice folks) about training front/back 3 (in half crimp I believe) translating well to pockets of the 1 and 2 finger variety. I call it "semi open-hand" because my middle and pointer finger go into a slight half crimp when I put my pinky finger on. Also you can adjust the trackpad "click" from soft to hard etc. 5” tall, and currently weigh 195lbs. I'm talking about joint articulation of the fingers solely. Hey, On my old Mac Pro 2017 I used to drag up with 3 fingers and it showed me my Desktop, now I need to press F3 to do that. I have hangboarded 3 finger drag a bit in the past, but nothing too consistent. Junior climbers are prone to over-using the 3-finger drag on edges because they feel weak at half-crimping and hence a key coaching tip is to encourage them to use their little finger and maintain a half-crimp. I have created a new feedback item, proposing they implement a 3 finger drag option, which would mean no need ot double tap and hold, just a much smooth 3 finger drag; and make it work for window movement anywheereon the window, as well as other drag functions like icons. I noticed on the wall i would never half crimp which made certain problems super difficult. These means the ring finger stays weak crimping while the other fingers get strong -- leading to an imbalance and high potential for pulley poppin. I do all the other grips as well but will more often then not 3 finger drag most holds if I can, especially on overhangs or roof climbs. in the trackpad settings. However the transfer to four-finger edges was poor — I got used to not using my little finger (a terrible habit!). Last year I had a mild-moderate tear in my left hand lumbrical between my ring + pinky finger pulling on a slopey pocket at wild iris (lmao classic). This feels slightly uncomfortable sometimes. couldn't really remember what exactly my hand was doing when i hurt it, and couldn't tell what i Posted by u/cheeseboot - 33 votes and 23 comments 4 finger open =/= 4 finger drag (4finger drag beeing 3 finger drag + pinky in drag position) 4 finger open is for me having 4 fingers on with my Index finger beeing open (not 90 degree). I believe Aidan Roberts is somewhat similar in that he is fairly weak on a hangboard in half crimp, but very strong with a flexed pinky. If you can't because your hands are small, try the Steelseries Rival 3, it's not nearly as good but it's small. Repeaters: 90 s of 7/3 on 20 mm at bodyweight, half crimp. A bit of background: BW=72kg MVC-7 half crimp= +40kg Stronger back-3 than front-3 half crimp. Is there anyone who knows how to make 3 finger gesture to move around the windows? It consists of 4 finger half crimp, front 3 half crimp, back 3 half crimp, 3 finger drag/open. I literally couldnt make a half crimp position with my fingers collapsing into 3 finger drag. So I injured my A4 ring finger pulley a couple months ago while half crimping, and took a couple months off of climbing. I have really fat fingers and shorter than average pinkies, so I'm a little more concerned with 3 finger grips than others with different anatomies may be. I’m on tap and hold for years now. comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment Setup finger taps, then you don't have to push the trackpad all the way down. You are right that its almost impossible to 3 finger open hold most indoor tiny crimps. If I am doing max hangs on an 18mm+ edge I tend to fall from a strict half crimp into a four finger drag when I tire or if the weight is near my limit. Week 13-forever, climb normal, using 3 finger drag when applicable. Is there a way to use 3 finger drag Up to show the Desktop and bind the F3 to open Launchpad instead of Desktop? Full crimp can be used of course, but definitely don’t use it as your main grip type. Interestingly, I am waaaay stronger at back 3 than front 3. Jul 26, 2021 · This may simply mean incorporating more open hand work into your current hangboard routine, or starting a brand new hangboard routine specifically for open hand work. 4 fingers open is probably more useful than 3 finger drag on the wall, but training-wise I think half-crimp and 4 fingers open have more overlap compared to half-crimp and 3 finger drag, i. As a warm up I always do 3 finger drag, half crimp and full crimp. Make sure to warm-up Week 3-8: Progressively load your grips, don't push your max. I almost mentioned 3 finger drag, but figured it would complicate matters for OP/discussion. 3 finger drag multi-select from Mac OS on Windows, does anybody know of any programs that can achieve this? Help I tap to click a lot, and the double tap to multi-select is a nightmare when I want to clickly close something, then carry on moving the trackpad. I've been having an issue where if I push my fingers all the way to the back, the thickness of the hangboard edge causes me to naturally want to curl the fingers closer to 90, rather than straight. May 10, 2022 · The catch is that on really hard moves it won’t provide as much traction or stability on edges as the full or half-crimp. I 3-finger drag majority of the time and I think it’s due to my pinky being so short compared to my first 3 fingers. My feedback can be found here: https://aka. - Open finger to open finger is a slightly longer chord than finger base to finger base, so dragging increases your reach. To get used to 3 finger dragging when climbing you really have to focus on using it. Click the Trackpad Options button. Weighted pull: 100lbs One arm Lock off: 3. Has anybody seen gains focusing on 3 finger drag? Tap and hold is better as it doesn’t interfere with 3 finger swipe gestures. For a while I had been struggling a bit with enabling three finger drag in linux. It will feel weird because your body isn't used to it and your reflex will be to default to a non 3-finger drag. Warm-up, don't fuck up Week 9-12 Start adding climbing back in, only using 3 finger drag to start. I would assume it happened over the span of 11 years. Hanging 4mm in any grip typ is super stong, no wonder that you rather crimp pinches etc. 5 years, am 5’ 8. Start on your knees and slowly shift weight onto your fingers. Regarding your index finger splitting out from your other fingers while half crimping, while with your feet on the ground, play around with the angle and direction of your elbow. , half-crimp and 3 finger drag complement each other better. I have been climbing for close to two years (3 times a week for one year) and have always just used open hand on crimps. it conflicts with 3 finger Os level zoom, the 4 fingers desktop/launchpad swipe, or general zooming in safari. Ive been climbing for a year now and your second paragraph described me exactly when i first started hangboarding several months ago. But i would suggest, drag-lock + rectangles combo, (Bonus: Raycast windows management) since 3 fingers drag Sometimes. But I might be wrong. I've seen really drastic gains in my 3 finger drag, and I have trouble understanding them. Week 2: Start hangboarding at a really light weight. I'm currently suffering from a tfcc issue and notice I have been using the three finger drag significantly more on my injured side. Because of the different lenght of my fingers my middle and ring fingers are about 90 degree in this position. Start doing longer, lower intensity holds like 30-45 seconds with 1-2 minute rests for like three-four reps in a session to get full tendon activation. 3 FT. At this point I heard a pop in my wrist and it felt like it was pulled apart a bit. I've injured my wrist but can't quite figure out what I've actually done to it. My own beginner routines were around a total of 90 seconds of hangs at my limit and another 90 seconds of warm-up hangs. Drag is untested. Endurance: 20 mm half crimp at bodyweight: 45s. 3 finger drag form is much different than half crimp form. Then you roll up into a more closed position which is a strength in and of itself too. After recovering, I decided to start training 3 finger drag/2 finger pocket grips via a variety of hangs (mostly repeaters + density). Soreness and pain is basically 0 doing normal stuff, the first set of my farmer crimps today I could feel my finger but wouldn't describe it as any pain. I usually end up doing mostly 29mm for front and 15mm for back 3! I started training fingers in multiple different positions. It's like retraining your body to hold a spoon differently. Whenever I try hangboarding half crimp my pinky finger eventually gives up and turns it into open hand. You now do session 3 in the week to get a maximal 2T and 4ML, which adds 1. It was only when I got the Beastmaker and worked on open handed 3 finger drag that my niggles disappeared and I was relatively injury free for years. However, as per the title, there is a delay after I release and before the drop happens, which is not there when using the traditional click and drag. Should I train this 3 finger grip more until it is stronger and use this more? Three fingers drag + rectangle Snap window works the best. Reply reply The GNOME Project is a free and open source desktop and computing platform for open platforms like Linux that strives to be an easy and elegant way to use your computer. had some swelling in my palm/ring A1 area and pain when trying the three finger drag. It's likely you're just weak in the 3 finger drag position because you've never trained it or you don't use it when climbing a ton (insert u/justcrimp rant here lol). If I recall correctly you can’t continue the drag at the end of the trackpad by only shortly lifting the finger with 3 finger drag. Owing to a lot of sage advice I tend to drag a lot on holds. e. I have incredibly weak fingers that I’m looking to strengthen. brsuol nwab fnff qnchn xzyzrn nshi orw atwd mmjkwt mfkeqs