How to lead belay with atc. You can set up guide mode as shown, with one rope or two.

How to lead belay with atc (Black Diamond’s ATC—or “Air Traffic Controller”—is their model of the classic tube-style belay device. 6 days ago · We will also feature some of the best Air Traffic Controller (ATC) belay devices from Black Diamond. 7 to 10. Follow along with Gearheads Alex Quitiquit and Nils Mindnich as they dive into three of their favorite Jun 21, 2023 · Belays are typical done using ATCs, ATC Pilots and Grigris. Guide mode belay devices are designed to be auto-locking when correctly used in a direct belay; manufacturers instruct to always keep a hand on the brake rope , but by design, the belay device should lock automatically in Some ATC-style belay devices have a 'guide mode' function - they can be set up in a way which locks automatically if a climber falls. One of the first skills you need to master once you start climbing is how to belay. However, when belaying a top rope climber, the belayer only takes up slack rope as the climber moves upward. Dec 13, 2023 · When I was learning how to use the GriGri, my main hang up was that it seemed easier to short-rope a lead climber. 00:00 Introduction01:18 Preparation07:11 Belaying13:52 Most Common Mistakes Camera & Assist Learn how to belay a lead climber with instruction from the American Mountain Guides Association. Simply pull the brake strands through as the climber moves up. Since top-rope belaying is simpler, it might be best to master it before you try belaying a lead climber. It's easier to feed slack through than the Grigri. Plus, you can easily switch from top rope belaying to lead belaying with the Grigri +. Tube and plate style belay devices are often used for multi-pitch climbing, particularly if double or twin ropes are used. Even if you are not belaying a lead climber, it is good to follow the tips here as long as the climber is heavier than you. This is a fundamental skill needed to become an independent outdoor climber and Learn to belay a lead climber, including how it differs from top-rope belaying. This article covers how to belay with an ATC. Here’s how to belay with ATC: Fasten the ATC inside the carabiner and attach the carabiner inside the harness belay loop; Take a bight of your rope, pass it via the ACT slot’s right hand, and attach the rope via the locking carabiner. Keep the climber close to your heart, set up your lead belay the right way. Mar 8, 2013 · The Black Diamond ATC revolutionized belaying in rock climbing. Jul 8, 2021 · When belaying someone else from the base of a route, as in normal single pitch climbing, the ATC-guide is used just as if you were belaying with a regular belay device. Nov 6, 2022 · One of the climbing market’s most famous and trusted belay devices is the Black Diamond Air Traffic Controller or ATC. Lead Belaying: These articles explain everything you need to know to safely climb at any indoor wall. I have the black diamond ATC pilot and I love it for lead belaying. End of story. But it is still important to know the risks. It will focus on top rope belaying, but what you’ll be reading is largely transferable to lead belaying. Mar 28, 2019 · The Ergo and the ATC Pilot are assisted braking belay devices. I know that I'm doing everything right mechanically. Clip the ATC into the carabiner, then clip the carabiner into the belay loop of your harness. Learn to lead climb, top rope and lead belay safely. If your blocking carabine This article will answer the question, what is belaying? It will stress how important belaying is in rock climbing – how it is the most important skill in roped climbing – followed by a step-by-step guide on how to belay safely. They likely search for a locking carabiner on the cluster of items that have amassed on their harness or they look for their PAS (personal anchor system) in which to clip the anchor. The concepts are the same as with the lead belay technique described above, especially the requirement to keep your brake hand on the rope. For example, many alpine climbers prefer this belaying device because of their lighter weight and versatility, which is better for multi-pitch climbing objectives. Dec 11, 2016 · A basic top roping skill. The Climbing Nomads - We explore how to lead belay safely and effectively and include some tips about position, arresting a lead fall and soft catches. I applied the same diligence to everything, but where top rope belay is pretty much just mechanical, lead belay has way more skills that come into it. If your climber falls, your hand can be pulled into the belay device. Because of their two slots and holes for hanging from an anchor, plates are often used by those who climb with twin ropes (which is more common in Great Britain than North America). It provides considerable bite for catching lead falls, and it locks off by itself when your partner needs to rest, just like active-assisted brake devices. Part 1: Applying Top Rope Belaying to Lead Belaying Jan 3, 2024 · How to use an ATC belay device. Before climbing, you’ll hear these commands: Climber: On belay? Belayer: Belay on. You can use an ATC-style device to belay a climber on top rope or lead, from above or below the climber, and you can also use it to belay two following climbers at once (or one climber using half and twin ropes). The grigri is over hyped. Another common mistake is to hold your hand too close to the belay device. We cover gear, setup, safety, communication and technique. Whichever device you use, be sure you’re comfortable and knowledgeable on how to set it up and use it well. Belaying with an ATC involves knowing how to: Set up the ATC belay device; Belay with the PBUS Technique; Lower the climber with the ATC belay device; There are currently different variations of the ATC in the market. The brake handle has also been updated with an anti-panic locking system. Black Diamonds ATC devices are among the most reliable ATC belay devices for rappelling and are used by millions of climbers worldwide. May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. One of those friends, really prefers to use a GriGri to lead belay people, and asks that her belay partner use one when she climbs. You can use the Guide as a lead belaying device and for belaying from the top. I'm slowly building up my gear, and have an ATC Guide as my only belay device. Complete Guide to Lead Belaying From basics to nerdy tips & tricks. I flake the rope, always have my hands on the rope at the right Sep 21, 2023 · The first iteration of the Petzl GriGri debuted in 1991. In this video Kerry Lee shows you how to correctly set up your belay using an ATC. This means that any route you have to rappel off of pretty much requires an ATC or equivalent. The ATC-Pilot is hands-down the best belay device I've ever used. I asked the instructor of the class the same question and they gave me a very non answer of "i do not use a grigri so idunknow" May 12, 2016 · Lead belaying is more complicated that just delivering slack. Knowing how to belay from above is an important skill for a climber. This can be used for both single pitch and multipitch applications If your hand is up above the belay device and your partner falls, the rope will slide through the belay device, burning your hand and perhaps bringing your climber down. This is also known as belaying the second (i. Walk into your lead-belay class confident in your understanding of the basics, starting with this coverage of the following: Rope Prep for Lead Belaying; How To Lead Belay; Additional Safety Considerations; Rope Prep for Lead Belaying. The ATC is typically better suited to multi-pitch climbing and alpine environments. When doing a multi-pitch climb, which is a long climb … Mar 15, 2023 · Stoked for climbing season? Let’s chat belay devices. In this REI Expert Advice video, we show you how to prepare to belay, per Nov 12, 2020 · When I started lead belay this year, the first comments I got were promising. They can be used as a normal belay device too. The ATC-XP was designed 10 years later by Jonny Woodward to provide more friction when using skinny 8mm ice-climbing ropes. It is easier if you are belaying off a top rope or belaying from above. A single rope geometry assisted belay device with enhanced braking, the ATC Pilot introduces a system that provides an added level of security to your belay, This video shows the AMGA standard way of belaying and lowering from the top with an ATC. Jul 17, 2021 · Join StoneMan Climbing Co. GriGri2 pays out slack very easily when you get the hand positioning right, makes the falls/hanging a lot more comfortable (especially when the belayer is off the ground), prevents rope slip when people are hanging, and lowers very smoothly. Belay commands. The pilot is easier to learn how to use especially if you learned to climb with the ATC. The benefit of the ATC-guide comes when you are top-rope belaying someone from the top of a climb as he follows your lead on a multi-pitch scenario. The Pilot is simple, light, and perfect for what it does. Sticht Plate was the first belay device that applied for a patent in 1970. Dec 22, 2022 · Can you lead climb and belay with an ATC Guide? Yes, you can lead the climb with an ATC Guide. Locked carabiner attached to belay loop, climber’s strand top, brake strand on the bottom. Ouch. How to use and safely belay using an Air Traffic Controller (ATC). Complete Guide to Top Rope Belaying - Tips & Common mistakes. One distinct advantage it has over the Gri-Gri is that it can be used for a double-rope rappel. Don't listen to any of these gumbies talking about how the grigri is better. Mar 23, 2024 · Lead Belaying with a Grigri Grigri is also phenomenal devices for lead belaying . In this video, the AAC applies the fundamental principles of belay to lead belaying, and divid As a background, while belaying a lead climber, indoor I usually prefer a grigri if the climber is working a route and expects to be hangdogging, or if they are trying to flash at their limit, but generally use an atc if they are aiming for an easy flash or a redpoint on a previous worked route (I've once short-roped a partner while he tried a As someone who learned to lead belay using an ATC first, and who for a while felt much more comfortable using an ATC over a Grigri, all climbers should be more comfortable using a Grigri. Climber: Climbing! I took a lead course with two friends(we had all climbed with each other outdoors already) a couple of months ago. Setting up your belay Aug 28, 2021 · There are plenty: Black Diamond ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso, Mammut Smart, Petzl GriGri 2, Petzl GriGri +, and more. the second climber). 5 mm range. Many devices are also designed to be clipped directly to the anchor when belaying a following climber from above. Perform the the PBUS belay method. Take a loop of rope, (a bight of rope) and stuff it through the right hand slot of the ATC. While a lot less cumbersome than belaying directly off the anchor, this method does have a few disadvantages. 1. Let the rope slide through your braking hand. The ATC is a dynamic belay device. Feb 1, 2022 · A correctly rigged Black Diamond ATC. It's cheap, light, and has assisted breaking. You can set up guide mode as shown, with one rope or two. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. To bring a second climber up to join the lead climber at a belay stance, the method of taking in slack rope shown in this video does not work, because the live rope needs to be pulled upwards through the device rather than downwards. e. Before you start lead belaying, do these three things to set yourself up for success. I tried lead belaying with both the Grigri and the ATC pilot. Nowadays, climbers and belayers benefit from modern belay devices and updated belay techniques to help keep climbers safe, whether on lead or top roping. Then, clip the rope through the carabiner, and lock it. When the rope is weighted the angle of the device changes, locking the rope down, though, as we mentioned above, you still need to keep your brake hand on the rope. Feb 21, 2020 · The Black Diamond ATC Pilot is a “geometry assisted” belay device for ropes in the 8. Mar 10, 2025 · A common type of belay device is an ATC, which features two slots for feeding through a bite of rope, and a wire keeper. Many gyms offer great lead-belay classes as well as lead-belay tests. You c Nov 17, 2023 · An ATC has two primary uses: belaying and rappelling. keep in mind, lead belaying on a grigri2 sucks with a fat ~11mm rope. Jul 20, 2013 · When the second climber arrives at the belay, they are looking to be secured to the belay so you can switch them over to lead belaying instead of auto-block mode. Dec 5, 2024 · The Edelrid Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking belay device, which means it can be used as both a traditional tube device and an assisted braking device when belaying the leader. One way to lead-belay with a grigri is exactly the same as it is with an ATC – with a guide hand to feed rope slack and a brake hand that is always in the brake position. be/qx3x5MMqGUgTop Rope & The difference with lead belaying is that rather than pulling slack out of Once you’ve mastered the art of top roping, it’s time to learn how to lead belay. Your setup for belaying a follower up a pitch that ends in a traverse is very similar: you will secure the device to your belay loop as you would for a lead belay, but now the climber will approach you from side-on. Prerequisites for Beginners:Belay Devices & Usage: https://youtu. ) So, I started asking questions. The result is a comprehensive comparison-t Belaying a heavier lead climber is the toughest. Feb 9, 2020 · LEAD BELAYING WITH A GRIGRI. But in many other ways it seemed safer than the standard ATC I learned to climb with. Dec 16, 2022 · At the time, hip belaying was the accepted technique for lead belaying. Because proper belaying is one of the most critical safety systems in climbing, clear communication is essential to make sure everything is set up correctly. Lead climbing comes with a risk of much The Plus also gives you a smoother feel so you don’t have to thumb the brake to let out slack, letting you belay the same way you would with a tubular device. To avoid confusion, let’s look at each one of them. the end of the rope going to the climber) needs to come out of the top of the belay device) while the brake strand of the rope needs to come out of the Dec 15, 2021 · By using a direct belay with a guide mode belay device, the belayer is free to move around the belay station while belaying. There isn't anything on the market that remotely comes close to the ease of use for lead belay. Though the principles of belaying are the same whether it is for a lead climber or a top-rope climber, certain technical practices differ. A slider bar along the top of the device must be positioned all the way on either end, denoting either manual or assisted mode, and then the rope must be loaded into the device in the correct manner depending on the mode, which is different for each. How do they work? How is the rope inserted? How do brake hand and guide hand work together for AMGA Certified Rock Instructor Erik Kramer-Webb shows how to give a direct belay for the follower once you have led the trad pitch. Black Diamond’s most tried and true belay device was named the ATC to facetiously draw the connection between a falling climber and an aircraft trying to land at the airport. Many other manufacturers have based Fairly new climber here, I learned to lead belay with an ATC, but recently got a Grigri and feel a lot more confident with it. As you can imagine, climbers preferred not to fall instead of testing the limits of this rudimentary belay system. Once someone is proficient with both an ATC and a GriGri2, I think the case is difficult to make that the ATC is any safer. This is a fundamental skill needed to become an I have been mock lead clmbing/belaying using the grigri and i am enrolled in my gyms lead classes to make sure i have someone watching and correcting any lapse in technique before i actually lead belay. Aug 17, 2019 · Advisory . Jan 16, 2020 · Belaying is arguably the most important skill in climbing so learning how to belay— and how to belay well— is essential! You’ll need to be able to demonstrate your ability to safely and effectively: Tie in correctly with a figure-8 follow-through knot backed up with a safety knot. When the lead climber reaches the top, he needs to belay up the climber who was belaying at the bottom. This video teaches you how to attach your rope to your belay device and harness. My belay device of choice for multi-pitch climbing is the ATC Guide, for its lightness, simplicity, and versatility. and learn how to lead belay using a tube-style belay device also known as an ATC. Most of the people I lead climb with were already using a Grigri when they began leading and learned that way. Since then, this versatile device has been widely considered the world standard for belay devices. Jan 4, 2024 · The term ‘belay plate’ is still used as a catch-all for any belay device (mostly by British climbers), but they actually are a very specific type of belay device. Mar 16, 2022 · When belaying a climber on a rope that is already secured overhead, this is called a top rope belay. But if you feed rope slack too quickly, the camming device in the grigri can engage and lock the rope. To avoid this, there is a second way to Dec 5, 2024 · All of these are designed to be used clipped directly to the belay loop of a harness with a locking carabiner when belaying the lead climber, or when belaying a top-roping climber. Make sure your rope . Lead or top-rope belaying with the Giga Jul can be done in either assisted braking or manual mode. While there are many imitations, the original holds a dear place in my heart for its elegance of design. something thinner is much easier to work with. How does it work? How is the rope inserted? How do brake hand and guide hand work together for taking up or paying out rop Feb 22, 2020 · The first time someone loads an ATC for lead belaying, they might be confused by how the device ought to be oriented, but it’s important to remember that the climber’s side of the rope (i. You can also use an ATC to rappel or abseil, either on twin rope strands or a Dec 5, 2024 · Catch and Bite. Assisted braking belay devices like the Grigri are advantageous for lead belaying because arresting falls safely in a lead climbing scenario can be much more complex than top-roping and the extra security you get from the ABD helps mitigate risk. Join StoneMan Climbing Co. jsptx zkmdo mkndm fqiviom oiqgj lnyj inuor yxokd lxw rthuo