Dynex vs dyneema sling reddit.
You don't want big fat slings.
Dynex vs dyneema sling reddit. Overview: Nylon vs Dyneema .
Dynex vs dyneema sling reddit its so cheap you can just leave it cause its not $25 like a dynex sling. I have both, I will use my dynex slings to extend my master point. however there is a low melting point and it's completely now dynamic. To clarify, what I mean is the peak static force a sling can hold. You don't want big fat slings. 10mm Dynex Runners Ouvrir le menu Ouvrir l’onglet de navigation Retour à l’accueil de Reddit r/climbing A chip A close button Télécharger l'app Télécharger l’application Reddit Se connecter Se connecter à Reddit. Jun 24, 2024 · Here are 10 key facts about Dynex and Dyneema: 1. Apr 12, 2019 · The Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner is one of the highest scoring, and most economical, slings in this comparative review. 240mm dyneema/nylon sling is also great, especially if you're not worried about complicated belay stations. There are so many more factors than just your weight which impact the amount of force you put on that sling. Spectra is tougher than dyneema and will not shred as much over rock edges. I also always have a 180 and 120 sling on me for extending pro that can be used for anchors if needed. e. A small sling girth hitched toa bigger sling has cut the big sling, but that is different. This is due to the material behaving more statically, and why it doesn't matter once rope is introduced into the system, which was what the OP's concern was about. Cord is good if you need to bail as well. I prefer the mental comfort of not using a largely dyneema sling (DONT JUDGE ME BEARBREEDER), so I use this sling, rather than this dynex/dyneema (basically the same thing) sling. Jun 15, 2020 · Bottom Line: Nylon slings could be made as skinny, safer dynamically and less expensive than Dyneema. Polyester has also been used, but it's not nearly as common as nylon. In short, nylon is heavier and stretchier, while dyneema slings are Sling Materials. NYLON. I still use them, but I'd never put a knot in one. Generally recommended to replace soft goods (nylon/dyneema cord, slings, etc. As far as streaming goes, it has been doing relatively well without buffering and PQ issues over these 2 weeks. basically i have 12" runner that is nylon to extend my belay device so that if my rope rubs on it it is not as dangerous (i. Maybe between nylon, dynex (BD), dynema (mammut ones), titan/spectra. From the top: Mammut Contact, Petzl Pur'Anneau, BD Dynex, Sterling Dyneema, Camp USA 11mm, Trango Low Bulk, Metolius Open Loop, BlueWater Titan, Sterling Nylon, and BD Nylon. I can’t decide it seems DSPTCH has better quality for $300 and chrome industries is fine for $100 but I have no clue how they compare in person. the nylon vs dynema thing isn't anything new. com I sling horns a fair bit where I climb, but I loop in a slip knot to keep it from coming off as I climb by. The price is reasonable, too. no risk of a static material taking a dynamic load) and B) the rope absorbs a lot of the dynamic force of falling. However, where all those slings are flat webbing, this one is a rounded shape. Use a water knot and leave 3" tails. My BFF recommended Sling TV, so I jumped in. But knotting dyneema is far worse than knotting nylon slings. The HMG packs use fabric made by the company Dyneema, but it's not made out of the Dyneema Fiber (utra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene). Mostly because its easier to untie an overhand knot or a clove hitch with it, and if you fell on it while using as a PAS its much safer than dyneema (see this scary DMM video showing 2 foot direct falls on slings). For dyneema I feel like most people prefer the mammut 8mm contact sling, but really any dyneema sling that has the bar tack sewn in will be perfect for using for years. This post dives quickly into the pro’s and con’s along with the best uses and the rest of the post is dedicated to explaining exactly why we’ve labeled them as such. Apr 11, 2019 · The sling that the Camp USA 11mm Express Dyneema Sling compares most favorably toward is the Metolius Open Loop Sling, which we awarded our Top Pick for Anchor Building. Feb 25, 2012 · so I am looking into replacing my old slings and was wondering what people's opinions where about the different kinds of sling materials. Apr 11, 2019 · At only 8mm wide, the Contact Sling is a full two millimeters narrower than the second closest competitors, the Pur'Anneau Sling, Black Diamond Dynex Runner, and the Sterling Dyneema Sewn Runner. Posted by u/drflex - 3 votes and 11 comments Only thing to keep in mind with nylon vs. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Apr 20, 2006 · However, if you want to tie a knot in a 16' sling, clip it from you to a bolt on an overhang, climb above the bolt until the sling is tight and leap off - you might possibly manage to make the sling fail at the knot. Called Sling tech support and was on hold for >3 hours! 13 mm Dynex Rabbit Runner Junk is rated for way more than you need. And yes we are scared of falling. For nylon slings I honestly don't think it makes much difference. I swear this is the first thing that anyone told me when I started climbing. Even on my quickdraws and on my cams (DMM Drangons): less weight, lower bulk. i use dyneema for everything. So I’m going to be going to college soon and I have been looking between DSPTCH’s Sling Pack RND edition Dyneema and Chrome Industry’s Kadet Max Slide. I thought dyneema was generally avoided for friction applications because of it's low melting point? A hollow block would obviously work well here. Favorite sling is the Mammut Contact 8mm as its stitching is snag free. Most other Dyneema/Dynex/Spectra slings: ~$15 Mammut Magic Sling: ~$20 So a 30% increase in price for a sling that's twice as strong. A nylon sling would be more robust than a dyneema sling, but they are bigger and more unwieldy for such a purpose. (Edits from a real computer) I like 5mm cord. From left to right, Chimera + Hoodwire with a BD dynex single, Positron + Hoodwire with a BD dynex single, Two Neutrinos with a BD dynex single, Two Neutrinos with an Edelrid nylon single, and an old-school style hand tied single on BD oval carabiners (because I had the stuff on hand and was curious). This highly abrasion-resistant, lightweight material won't weigh you down and absorbs less water than nylon, making it perfect for big I added Sling TV as an addition to my YTTV package because of the YTTV ESPN/Disney debacle, although now resolved, and enjoy Sling TV very much. wont'get cooked) as fast as dyneema. 1. Four months after purchasing AirTV-2 from Amazon, the unit died. Reply An essential part of any alpine climber's rack, Black Diamond Dynex Runners are indispensable for building anchors, slinging natural features or extending placements to reduce rope drag. This DMM testing in the link below shows failure of Dyeema in fall factor 1 & 2 and nylon performed better. Or use the climbing I wear sling bags all the time, and prefer buying more sling bags (because it’s more likely I’ll use it often daily as opposed to a backpack). Dyneema composite fabric is 2 layers of plastic film with some Dyneema fibers laminated in between to reinforce it. I'm surprised that the FB knot uses a dyneema sling. The document has moved here. I carry 5 nylon and 5 dyneema slings. For years the main material in climbing slings has been nylon. In the same test on a drop tower, a FF2 absolutely destroyed a dyneema sling with a knot, while the same fall in a knotted nylon sling actually reduced the impact because the knot tightened and stretched absorbing the load. Plus, we have years of experience working with industry frontrunners to develop innovative solutions for the most demanding applications. rated strength is NOT even close to a direct measure of safety, since an anchor is a system and no single component should ever be subjected to the breaking strength of a cord. They get in the way on your harness/over the shoulder and are just bulky as fuck. Especially not between 8mm and 10mm. It's a polyester face fabric laminated to a dyneema composite fabric. only exceptions: two kevlar/aramid slings for tunnels. 3. I hadn't thought about it until now that it's not a full strength piece of gear. Posted by u/HeyBrianHey - 316 votes and 52 comments -one sewn sling, double shoulder length (120 cm), to make a sliding x/equallete. It is nice to have a fatter sling for 2-screw anchors (usually a nylon-dyneema blend so it's not too fat) because it's easier to untie when you are moving on from a multipitch belay. I use 6mm nylon cord. 2. Dyneema® is the world’s strongest fiber™ – and our strength takes many forms, from safety and reliability to durability and efficiency. The reality is, most of us use it on our draws, most of us use it in situations where falls aren't very common, and when dynema/dynex fails it's almost always when people girth two pieces of soft gear together, not from a crazy fall onto a sling. The home of Climbing on reddit. So Dyneema is really strong in a static setting, but can break a lot easier than nylon when loaded dynamically. Wear and actual use has the greatest detrimental effect on sling lifespan. Aug 31, 2020 · Metolius 18mm Open Nylon Sling; Black Diamond Dynex Runner; Black Diamond Nylon Runner; Petzl ANNEAU Polyester Sling; How to Choose the Best Climbing Slings for Your Needs Nylon vs. Sep 1, 2023 · All 10 slings that we tested for this review side-by-side for comparison, arranged from thinnest on top to thickest on the bottom. All in all the draw weighs in at 60 grams. The stiffness is great to shove it through the tunnel. Dyneema is that nylon is a lot more dynamic. pros for nylon- lasts longer and more resistant to cutting? dynex and dyneema are obvious Moved Permanently. Thanks for the replies. Although. In recent years ultra-high-molecular-weight (UHMW) polyethylenes, with brand names like Dyneema, Dynex and Spectra have gained popularity. I use double length nylon sling to extend rappel or make a PAS for cleaning. Standing around for 10min trying to untie a frozen, weighted dyneema sling is bad style. Personally I take 5 alpine draws, 2 draws made out of a 30cm sling and biners, and I make up more with quickdraws, in my local area normally two normal draws and one locking draw. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. I could see this being a factor in a tripled sling ( Yos. In a top-roping situation, your anchor slings are fine: they are 1) likely under constant load (i. but it needs more replacing. But you get what you pay for. Just canceled Sling TV last Sunday, St Patrick's day. The cord is a little longer which I like for trees, rocks or tricky pro. Sling is quicker for easy pro. Although nylon climbing slings are UV stabilized, prolonged exposure to UV has a detrimental effect on both Nylon and Dyneema. 180 is perfect for bolts. There is a thing Have you ever wondered what the difference is between a nylon sling and a Dyneema sling? Is it safe to use Dyneema to attach to an anchor? Or what about us For the 4 foot slings, my preference is to tie them out of nylon (not Dyneema) webbing. Oct 6, 2008 · i went all dyneema when i first got all my draws. Chances are you'll never take a 10kn whipper, but just look at how much weaker the Dyneema sling is with a knot vs without. But I often have a spare 60cm sling or two on the back of my harness to use as protection but I can extend things with them if needed. if it is, you did something else very wrong. You also have a good chance of ripping the bolt or finding yourself hanging in space from an intact sling but with a broken back. Dyneema has a lower melting point than nylon, so the heat caused by the friction of the prusik and the rope rubbing together is more likely to melt/weaken/break a dyneema third hand than a nylon third hand. That award could conceivably have also gone to this sling, although in the end its added cost makes it hard to justify buying it for the same performance. rated strength is not the same concept as durability in an anchor, the most important aspect is not a single component's rated strength. Overview: Nylon vs Dyneema . Spectra is not the same as Dyneema. also if your ever in a spot to hook into an anchor with a The bottom line is that these videos are talking about what happens when static material is dynamically loaded. Dyneema. 15mm or 9/16" should be fine. Dyneema can't be dyed, so slings are always white, often with a coloured thread running through them too – this is a nylon ‘filler’ that is used to help hold the sling together. quickdraw) on a small wiregate but doubt it has much of an effect. 22Kn for a sewn sling) and perhaps more importantly the mode of failure isn't consistent. So, it looks as though Sling TV will be a keeper for me. An important note is that while I carry both sewn dyneema and nylon, I try to keep a longer sling that is tied in case I forget a knife. I carry a 240 sling and 20ft of Cord. Both fibers have a high strength-to-weight ratio, with Dyneema being slightly stronger than Dynex. sling of the purple c3 (only bd cam i own) Dyneema (also known as Spectra or Dynex) is incredibly strong for its weight and is more abrasion and cut-resistant than nylon. most of my cams aren't but 12KN anyway. I am a fan of Sterling power cord after only one climb. Dynex and Dyneema are both made from ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE). Or, if constructing it for use as a foot loop, may as well just use a 120cm sling, if you have one, and skip the extra biner. I actually had to toss a dyneema sling today because it rubbed too much on an edge and tore through half of it. Dynex is a brand name for “high-molecular-weight polyethylene” fiber, which is essentially the same exact material that makes up Dyneema or any of the non-Nylon choices in this review. While we are not suppose to fall directly on Dyneema slings and these test are worst case, it seems like nylon is the better material, but people like Dyneema because it's l 1. I guess 50% of 22Kn is still better than a lot of the active and passive gear I use. It's even annoying building anchors with them. My understanding is that they where trying to demonstrate that knotting your own dyneema slings is a bad idea because they can fail at relatively low loads (in a dynamic situation 15Kn vs. Or use the climbing Generally recommended to replace soft goods (nylon/dyneema cord, slings, etc. Pros. The discussion over nylon vs. Bad things (can) happen. Dynex and Dyneema have low elongation properties, making them ideal for applications where minimal stretch Feb 11, 2016 · You’ve seen all the sling choices and aren’t sure: Dyneema, Spectra, Dynex or Nylon. A dyneema sling tested in slow pull fails at 26+kN, but in dynamic test fail at 21ish kN. and honestly, i love dynex dyneema slings, but i only use them in extentable draws, i dont think its a good idea to knot the stuff. dyneema slings is a long one and worth reading up on. You'll need about 10 feet of webbing to make a 4 foot sling. Tinyonion makes a good point about dyneema not holding a knot, but there are no, as in zero, examples of a sling being the failure point in an anchor because it reaches it's failure point in terms of load. If you want a full set of light trad/alpine sling- and quickdraws for cheap I warmly recommend looking for sales of rack packs of light biners (CAMP NANO, Edelrid 19G etc), 60cm dyneema slings and 17cm Petzl Ange S/L or BD OZ Posted by u/ElPollo_Crazy - 2 votes and 11 comments Dyneema is better for everything elseless weight, bulk, and especially nice for over the shoulder single carabiner extendables for cams. cheaper; colorful See full list on outdoorgearlab. Personally, I have a 7mm, 6mm, and 240mm sling in my closet since I like variety and they're inexpensive as far as trad climbing gear goes. for cams, draws, and anything else) after 7-10 years maximum, regardless of wear and tear (and of course earlier if damaged). Time alone is not a good indicator of softgoods lifespan Skinny slings do not last as long as fatter slings, simply because less material. Switching from DirecTV to Sling, we saved $60 a month. M Sep 3, 2007 · I read someones hypothesis that dyneema slings would increase a biners real world strength because its thin size would promote a more even lengthwise loading than a larger nylon sling. In terms of comfortability I think it’s just something you get used to over time and some slings are more comfortable than others. jkbelmnujhnfezlrohwmebinqcjdqrbxejrttfakxpxze