Dyneema 8mm vs 11mm sling reddit. So, I'm not sure what to do.

Dyneema 8mm vs 11mm sling reddit While all Dyneema slings are joined with a small amount of nylon on the edges to give color and suppleness, the 11mm rated strength is not the same concept as durability in an anchor, the most important aspect is not a single component's rated strength. Dyneema slings are prized for their light weight and low bulk, and alpine/winter climbers often prefer them for not absorbing water. 5mm dyneema or kevlar for an anchor but you need to know the limitations. It's also pretty damn slippery as cordage goes. I carry a 240 sling and 20ft of Cord. Technical Details. The cord is a little longer which I like for trees, rocks or tricky pro. 0 out of 5 stars Super light 8 mm Dyneema sling—perfect for threads. . I'm surprised that the FB knot uses a dyneema sling. TL;DR: IIRC, they found that the nylon sling failed at MBS and the UHWMPE sling failed at 50%. pros for nylon- lasts longer and more resistant to cutting? dynex and dyneema are obvious That doesn't surprise me that they are thick. High-strength Dyneema core keeps weight to a minimum; Made of bio-based Dyneema; Width: 8 mm; Generally recommended to replace soft goods (nylon/dyneema cord, slings, etc. CE Certification: Testing performed by an independent lab to ensure the product meets the appropriate specification. Compared with Mammut Contact Slings, this DMM version is the same width but slightly fatter. Certification: Certified to EN 566 – Mountaineering Equipment – Sling Dynatec has […] Been a long time since I used 60 cm nylon slings for the last time. High-strength Dyneema® core keeps weight to a minimum; Made of bio-based Dyneema® DYNEEMA SLING 8 mm / C2004X Sling for an anchor point dyneema: Strength: 22 kN: Width: 8 mm: Length: 60 and 120 cm (24 and 48 in) Reference C2004X120. 5. Dyneema slings are sewn together, meaning it's just one less thing to think about. Hollowblock will bite even better and last even longer. A small sling girth hitched toa bigger sling has cut the big sling, but that is different. What’s more, Dyneema®-based general-purpose lifting slings have a longer service life than alternatives made from generic synthetics or steel, delivering greater resource efficiency. I've used Vs with 1. The bottom line is that these videos are talking about what happens when static material is dynamically loaded. In the same test on a drop tower, a FF2 absolutely destroyed a dyneema sling with a knot, while the same fall in a knotted nylon sling actually reduced the impact because the knot tightened and stretched absorbing the load. Product information . So, I'm not sure what to do. Cordelette: Use 18 to 20 feet of 7mm or 8mm nylon cord or 5mm high-strength UHMW polyethylene (such as Spectra or Dyneema) tied in a loop. 0s are all Mammut Contacts made with dyneema so they're pretty good and, according to store pages, they can hold a 22 kn fall. That said, I keep a couple of nylon slings on me (usually one 60cm and one 120cm) as they are nicer for building anchors, extending your rappel, etc. ) 7mm cord is dirt cheap, I'd give that a shot before stepping up the size of the rope or trying more exotic materials. Super light 8 mm Dyneema® sling—perfect for threads. Strength: in a quad, all these materials would probably be fine, but 7+ mm cord or dyneema is the way to go. You also have to tie the ends together, making it a bit more effort and complicated. 2 micro cord and been ok, but at that point, prusik/taught lines work better Ideally cord can hold knots, and dyneema is too stiff and slick to do so effectively. The better flat bands like the Snipper sling green used with 8mm steel can kill. In a top-roping situation, your anchor slings are fine: they are 1) likely under constant load (i. The discussion over nylon vs. rock horns for protection, or to connect you to an anchor. Based on these criteria, Dacron 1. CE EN566 Certified Strength: 22kN Width: 8mm Would you use this gear (5mm Dyneema cord, not sling, detail in the first pic + Petzl Vertigo) to build a multipitch anchor ? comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment Feb 11, 2016 · DMM has done extensive testing and quite interestingly they found particularly for the 8 mm tape, the breaking strength [of Dyneema] increased if the Dyneema® was wet or frozen. The danger is using dyneema as a PAS, letting slack into the system (climbing up to or above the anchor) and then falling directly onto the sling. They are slimmer in width than a traditional nylon sling, but not as thin as a dyneema one, and much thicker in depth and stiffer than a purely nylon or dyneema sling. Or use the climbing Super light 8 mm Dyneema sling—perfect for threads. It's perfectly safe. Dyneema would be a bit better. One of the tests they do is to put a knot in and break test. Junk is rated for way more than you need. Posted by u/drflex - 3 votes and 11 comments Kevlar is super bad with knots and dyneema is pretty bad. Use a double fisherman's knot for Perlon cord or a triple fisherman's knot for the thinner UHMW polyethylene cord. e. *1 each 12 small wire carabiners for alpine draws and cams- Ocun Kestrel 25g 4 regular sized wire carabiners for anchors Few meters 5-6mm accesory cord. 6 out of 5 stars EDELRID Dyneema Sling 8mm II. In a loop you are fine or with two strands to each leg of the anchor. 6 out of 5 stars I would go bigger like 11mm steel but I really dont have the strength to control the thick bands to shoot accurately. I have a couple of Edelrid's Techweb slings that are a dyneema core and nylon sheath. Jun 20, 2017 · (eg 8mm hitch cord on 11mm rope is generally accepted to work well. Favorite sling is the Mammut Contact 8mm as its stitching is snag free. In stock 14 The dyneema will have a higher breaking load than a wire rope at the same diameter, but there are different types of dyneema rope, so you’re better off seeing what you need and basing it off that. Dyneema. for cams, draws, and anything else) after 7-10 years maximum, regardless of wear and tear (and of course earlier if damaged). My understanding is that they where trying to demonstrate that knotting your own dyneema slings is a bad idea because they can fail at relatively low loads (in a dynamic situation 15Kn vs. 3mm should be strong enough (120 lbs) for guylines while being large enough for lineloc minis, and potentially workable in terms Features of DMM Dyneema 8 mm Sling: 8mm Dyneema tape; Super light; Same strength as 11mm Dyneema slings; Abrasion resistant; Available as 60cm, 120cm and 240cm open Super light 8 mm Dyneema sling—perfect for threads. 8mm and only has a rated breaking point of 1000 pounds. I wear sling bags all the time, and prefer buying more sling bags (because it’s more likely I’ll use it often daily as opposed to a backpack). Use a 8mm dyneema sling (120) as a footloop instead of my heavy, bulky 11mm static rope one? Yes or no? Change the crab on the long cows tail to a… For an alpine rack I would carry less cams, more nuts, some 60cm alpine qd and two 120cm slings with biners clipped end to end around chest. Its Aug 31, 2020 · Nylon vs. Small cord will bite better and has a sheath to wear through before the core. DYNEEMA® SLING 8MM | EDELRID Thin DMM 8mm Dyneema® Dynatec slings are just as strong as their thicker variants. In short, nylon is heavier and stretchier, while dyneema slings are lighter, less absorbent, and more slippery. Feb 25, 2012 · so I am looking into replacing my old slings and was wondering what people's opinions where about the different kinds of sling materials. Personally, I have a 7mm, 6mm, and 240mm sling in my closet since I like variety and they're inexpensive as far as trad climbing gear goes. Posted by u/SettingIntentions - 10 votes and 7 comments Super light 8 mm Dyneema® sling—perfect for threads. But knotting dyneema is far worse than knotting nylon slings. The document has moved here. For a single strand kevlar would be heading towards sketchy since with a knot it’s probably 7kn. rated strength is NOT even close to a direct measure of safety, since an anchor is a system and no single component should ever be subjected to the breaking strength of a cord. That should allow you to fit more on your winch. Details. Maybe I'm living life on the edge according to some but I've seen guys use paracord for their suspensions so Dynaglide is safe enough in my opinion. Cypher’s assortment of slings provides almost every option for a customized rack system. 0 mm runners. Features. Extend your protection, build anchors, make alpine draws. There's also the drop tower tests that DMM has done. These are far far lighter than standard nylon slings, and quite a bit lighter than DMM 11mm Dyneema slings, but are still rated at over 2 Tonnes (22kN). 22Kn for a sewn sling) and perhaps more importantly the mode of failure isn't consistent. I have only ever used dyneema for anchors, and have caught top rope falls using an atc in guide mode. I would prefer 16mm or more for ease of grabbing and durability, but these mixed wire/solid quickdraws only come in 11mm dyneema. I thought dyneema was generally avoided for friction applications because of it's low melting point? A hollow block would obviously work well here. That's all been replaced by dynema slings. 240mm dyneema/nylon sling is also great, especially if you're not worried about complicated belay stations. I also always have a 180 and 120 sling on me for extending pro that can be used for anchors if needed. Most common applications are alpine draws, slinging e. I am a fan of Sterling power cord after only one climb. All in all the draw weighs in at 60 grams. For nylon slings I honestly don't think it makes much difference. Feb 25, 2015 · dose anyone have experience with both, how much durability was lost with the thinner sling if any? also tho the 8mm ones are super sporty and light i doubt that it is notably so as the 11mm ones were practically wait-less anyway. I have tried and it it is also effective. EDELRID's Dyneema® Sling 8 mm is a super light 8 mm Dyneema® sling perfect for threads. (Edits from a real computer) 6x 60cm 11mm dyneema sling *may want more depending on the route 2x 120cm 11mm dyneema sling 1x 240 8mm dyneema sling or enough dyneema/aramid cord to make an equivalent length sling. Sep 1, 2023 · On a multi-pitch climb, it's common for each climber to carry 1-2 extra long slings for this purpose, and from our testing, we think the Metolius Open Loop Sling offers the best array of attributes to be an ideal anchor sling. This is very likely because the water facilitated heat transfer, reducing heat build up along with a slight lubricating effect. So if you can shoot very accurately with bands that match 8mm steel there is no reason you cant hunt. Unslung heroes. I carry 5 nylon and 5 dyneema slings. if it is, you did something else very wrong. They are lighter, rack better and are easier to extend. Moved Permanently. I can get 10pcs for about $130. Apr 12, 2019 · While it isn't the absolute easiest Dyneema sling to untie once a figure-eight knot has been weighted, an honor that goes to the Metolius Open Loop Sling, its slippery fibers are still far easier to untie weighted knots than either the super skinny Mammut Contact Sling, or the much fatter and higher friction Black Diamond Nylon Sewn Runner. A dyneema sling tested in slow pull fails at 26+kN, but in dynamic test fail at 21ish kN. High-strength Dyneema core keeps weight to a minimum; Made of bio-based Dyneema; Width: 8 mm; To clarify, what I mean is the peak static force a sling can hold. I think the 8mm my work sells is around 6t break and the 10mm is about 9t, off the top of my head. Feb 3, 2023 · Singing Rock 8MM Dyneema Sling, 120CM,pink. g. The 16 mm nylon sling will work as a friction hitch, but has a higher risk of being damaged and therefore losing function as a sling. Dynatec has several advantages over traditional nylon webbing. Arborists deal with this stuff a lot too - lots of hitch cord materials in use with heat-resistant and high-friction sheaths. 8mm Mammut dyneema stitched sling, I think it's 180cm- carry on glacier slogs for crevasse rescue anchor building 8mm Mammut dyneema shoulder-length stitched sling - girth hitched to picket(s) How many folks here use 6mm (or smaller) for rock anchors? 7mm? Also curious about the dyneema slings in the alpine. High-strength Dyneema® core keeps weight to a minimum; Made of bio-based Dyneema® Super light 8 mm Dyneema® sling—perfect for threads. It has a higher strength-to-weight ratio, is less susceptible to UV d Dynaglide is 1. Dyneema is way better for alpine draws. Bad things (can) happen. 180 is perfect for bolts. Posted by u/patjune19 - 1 vote and 15 comments Dec 5, 2017 · GM CLIMBING 11mm UHMWPE Sling Runner 22kN CE UIAA Certified. no risk of a static material taking a dynamic load) and B) the rope absorbs a lot of the dynamic force of falling. Sling is quicker for easy pro. here are options all solids are keylock: $130 solid/wire mixed 11mm x 17cm dyneema 10pc set $100 solid straight/bent 16mm x 12cm nylon 10pc set Not only is Dyneema® SK78 fiber manufactured using 100% renewable electricity, but its low weight also enables less energy use in transport and operations. dyneema slings is a long one and worth reading up on. If you want a full set of light trad/alpine sling- and quickdraws for cheap I warmly recommend looking for sales of rack packs of light biners (CAMP NANO, Edelrid 19G etc), 60cm dyneema slings and 17cm Petzl Ange S/L or BD OZ Low bulk, low profile, lightweight 8mm Dyneema slings. Super light 8 mm Dyneema sling—perfect for threads. The 8. I tend to use 8. Maybe between nylon, dynex (BD), dynema (mammut ones), titan/spectra. Cord is good if you need to bail as well. How many cams and alpine qd depends on how hard the climb would be, but general scrambling with some small pitch climbing around 4 cams and 6 qd, but I' Posted by u/SettingIntentions - 1 vote and 15 comments HowNot2Highline on youtube has a good video comparing nylon to dyneema slings. Or, if constructing it for use as a foot loop, may as well just use a 120cm sling, if you have one, and skip the extra biner. 4. The downside is that they do not wear as well as Nylon Slings and so will not last as long. Tinyonion makes a good point about dyneema not holding a knot, but there are no, as in zero, examples of a sling being the failure point in an anchor because it reaches it's failure point in terms of load. They can be used for narrow thread protection and to generally reduce weight. I would use 5. 0 and 18. For dyneema I feel like most people prefer the mammut 8mm contact sling, but really any dyneema sling that has the bar tack sewn in will be perfect for using for years. In terms of comfortability I think it’s just something you get used to over time and some slings are more comfortable than others. did anyone out there'feel a difference' See full list on outdoorgearlab. It has a high-strength Dyneema® core and is certified to EN 566. This is due to the material behaving more statically, and why it doesn't matter once rope is introduced into the system, which was what the OP's concern was about. com Oct 29, 2023 · Versatility: cord is more versatile, but a bit more bulky. Made with Dyneema®These thin 8mm Dynatec slings are just as strong as their thicker variants. pbreh wtjmg pjsc czfggh xnuyi hhhgobr jecud uams okfnb yzbum