Best climbing shoes for edging reddit. Ocun shoes run smaller than other European shoe brands.

Best climbing shoes for edging reddit Sizing. I really enjoy the veloces for slab and smearing in general, but I feel like I am losing out a bit in terms of edging for some climbs. 0, and 9 for the phantoms. 5 evolv pontas II) and slightly down for my second pair (8 butora acros). When a company designs a new suite of shoes, they send pairs to us and our testers, and we climb in them, compare notes, write a review, and then, later, do a roundup of the latest and greatest releases of the year. 691 votes, 162 comments. V3-4 boulder, 6A+ lead. Aggressively downturned shoes tend to not do very well on edges, as they don’t have a lot of contact face with the rock. Do: Get a resole before you need it. I might suggest a cheaper pair for your first ever climbing shoe just until you get a sense for what they’re like. No edge shoes specifically are made so that they have a longer amount of time in that phase before wearing down completely. My old pair are soft, and I wanted to start working on climbing with a more aggressive shoe type, since I feel I’ve climbed long enough to start considering them. They fit like a less aggressive solution with a wider toe box. First off the reason these shoes were priced very low is because the manufacturer made a sizing mistake with them and they are approximately full size smaller than what a pair of climbing shoes of the same size would be. 5). Hi guys. The best shoes for slabs with tiny footholds are board-lasted shoes, the most rigid shoes imaginable. Nov 17, 2023 · Here, we’ve compiled ten of our favorite bouldering shoes—and a list of ten things to think about when buying climbing shoes. WHat happens is the edge wears down over time and eventually forms a rounded edge. r/climbingshoes • so long story short I got a pair of katana laces (women's sizing so has the XS grip2) for free and with the extra money I had from returning a different pair of shoes, I wan to get another pair more specific to outdoor climbing and climbs with a I've had the Scarpa Velocity climbing shoes in the beginning in the size 37,5 (my regular shoe size is 36,5 to 37) and even though they are a size/half a size bigger than my regular shoes, I still experience horrible pain in my big toe (the toe seems to curl up in the shoe and since I'm alpine climbing, when there comes a part, where I need to Apr 16, 2025 · What to look for in sport climbing shoes; Ten things you need to know about climbing shoes; Our favorites; Honorable mentions; Most gear roundups cover new releases. 5 USM street shoe) and tried out sizes 8. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I was told by a shoe guide in a climbing store that you should try on as many shoes as you can to find the best fit; it does not matter what they look like, as long as they are Go to a sporting goods store (or just your gym's store) and find what fits you the best. A well-fitting shoe is leagues better than the "best" shoe that doesn't fit the shape of your foot. Love them for comfort and i think they're generally good, but they're really squishy when it comes to tiny edges or micro footholds, they just deform and squeeze around my toes, and I lose any precision. I've had the Scarpa Velocity climbing shoes in the beginning in the size 37,5 (my regular shoe size is 36,5 to 37) and even though they are a size/half a size bigger than my regular shoes, I still experience horrible pain in my big toe (the toe seems to curl up in the shoe and since I'm alpine climbing, when there comes a part, where I need to Apr 16, 2025 · What to look for in sport climbing shoes; Ten things you need to know about climbing shoes; Our favorites; Honorable mentions; Most gear roundups cover new releases. . I have pretty wide feet, so usually would go with a men's model. Then I found the theories. Generally I actually up size my climbing shoes by a full size from street (45 to 46), and for a performance fit I go with street shoe size. r/climbingshoes • so long story short I got a pair of katana laces (women's sizing so has the XS grip2) for free and with the extra money I had from returning a different pair of shoes, I wan to get another pair more specific to outdoor climbing and climbs with a XS Grip 2 should be better in every way — durability, edging, and stickiness. Would a no edge shoes be a disadvantage for me to improve footwork as an intermediate climber? Mostly looking for gym climbing, could go outside. Gorilla stomp. No those aren't. When I first started shopping around for a climbing shoe I was very intrigued by La Sportiva specifically, and after looking at gear labs’ “best climbing shoes” tier list I was considering the LS Katana and Solutions. Every company uses slightly different lasts. Your shoes are actually quite good for this. 17z that was just sent. More comfortable than my TC Pros. Love your shoes. Aug 16, 2023 · The Generator is Scarpa’s new flagship trad-climbing shoe. In stiff shoes I pretty much just grind off the edge because it’s harder to get the sole rather than just the front edge into contact with the wall. (4mm of Vibram’s stiff XS Edge rubber complete the ensemble. 1mm midsole, making this shoe one of the stiffest climbing shoes in the La Sportiva line-up. The shoes themselves are comfortable enough, but I’m trying to get used to the lack of flexibility and smear grip I get with softer shoes. I've found overall kataki's to be the best all around shoes ice used for crack, having an exceptionally low profile toe, while at the same time being very comfortable (the have a similar neoprene sock construction to tenayas), and also moderately aggressive even when sized to jam comfortably for face climbing. Please keep your private life private. Apr 30, 2023 · What kind of climbing shoes are best for edging? As an experienced climber, I often get asked, "What are the best climbing shoes for edging?" The answer isn't one-size-fits-all and depends on the specific nature of the climbing scenario. My go-to size for downturned rock shoes range from European 38. That said if I were to make a trip to say, smith rock or somewhere similar I’d definitely pull out my old orange instincts for that haha Need shoes, been doing a good amount of bouldering and indoor climbing. If you still want more durability, get XS Edge. Otakis are the best thin crack shoe that can still micro edge if sized appropriately (I suppose you need the right foot shape - they are perfect for me). I'm rather light at 55kg. 5/10 Rating Jump to review We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. However I will say that in the lifecycle of every shoe, there's a point where they are effectively a no-edge shoe. Spend $160 on aggressive climbing shoes and then wear them to the gym to climb vert 5. My Miura laces are my primary shoe, I wear them 4-5 days per week with at least 2-3 days spent on gritty/crystal granite and sharp limestone, and typically only need a resold every 12 months or so. Dont worry about what other people say about a certain shoe; if your comfortable and feel like you can climb for a couple hours or so in them, then they are the ones. Just wondering what the best shoes to get are. The Katana supplies astounding edging power and precision in a subtly downturned design that doesn't require you to wholly abandon your comfort. Also, I don’t need to hear you talking about edging while I’m trying to flash the new 5. ps. And example of this is I have bought many climbing shoes and always go for size 41 European or around 8 1/2 American. 1. The rest of the shoe will continue to wear down and isn't replaced. Dynamic moves - like jumping and walking on volumes are also more difficult, since stiff shoes need more weight and contact which translates to time in contact Part of it is the fit, toe is too symmetrical and sole flat lasted (high arches), but also they are softer than one would expect. Mar 10, 2025 · The best climbing shoes just keep getting better. For cheaper shoes, you could probably find very lightly used pairs that will be comparably good to resoled shoes. 8s. Spend $60 on climbing shoes and be surprised when they fall apart after 2 months of gym sessions. I was hoping to get a pair to complement them. 5, 9. I find the Instinct line does everything they do but better and the Boostic is a superb stiff edging shoe for times I really want that such as techy granite face climbing. Best Outdoor All-Rounder: Scarpa Arpia V ($169) Best Sport/Mixed Shoe: Unparallel Qubit ($186) Best Bouldering Shoe: Scarpa Drago XT ($229) Best for Beginners: Butora Rubicon ($150) Best Shoe for Steep Routes: La Sportiva Mandala ($209) Best Training Shoe: Scarpa Veloce L ($175) Best Pure Slipper: La Sportiva i find it difficult to step on the tiny points ,so i decided to buy a pair of edging shoes for outdoor. Best toe and heel hook: Butora Gomi (followed by Indalo) Favourite rubber: Butora Neo Fuse Break in notes: all shoes were quite comfortable even during the break in period (apart from Redline because that barely stretches) Agreed, I just meant the dragos have skewed me heavily towards soft/sensitive shoes, even for vert micro edging terrain. See full list on outdoorgearlab. The Scarpas stretched a little but not a ton. Nov 11, 2023 · The stiff profile of the TC Pros is created by 4mm of XS Edge, the most rigid rubber compound Vibram produce, as well as a 1. 5 to European 39. At the same time, stiff shoes provide more power and edging capability which definitely helps when I need that extra boost when doing an overhang. Any recs? Why do I keep hearing you guys talking about your special “edging shoes”? I don’t think you even need shoes for that. I have flat and rather narrow low-volume feet. I am a U. The home of Climbing on reddit. im now wearing la sportiva phyton Jan 11, 2022 · A more asymmetrical shoe than Tenaya’s Oasi, with a stiffer midsole that gives excellent edging support for such an otherwise soft and comfortable climbing shoe. Fitting your climbing shoes for comfort is like buying a car because you like the driver’s seat. Dumb name, awesome product. Tenaya ra LV, my main climbing shoe (street size, and street -0. Comfort is not king. Ocun shoes run smaller than other European shoe brands. Loved it when it came out the box for its good mix of stickiness and support. I have pretty wide, flat feet with small heel (size 8. You should always have like 6-7 different pairs of shoes lol, tight soft shoes, tight edging shoes, multipitch medium shoes, end of the weekend upsized soft and edging shoes, the freshie sending pair, and a lucky pair for good measure. Nov 12, 2024 · Comfortable out of the box, even when sized down // Good edging, smedging, and “grabbing” performance on vertical and moderately overhanging face climbs // Offset and opposing velcro straps make it easy and quick to crank the shoe tight // Wide toe box adds comfort // Also available in low-volume model for narrower feet // Cheaper than specialized, high-performance shoes. 5. I used katamas/muira laces until I found the Otaki. I prefer Miuras for trad as they are easier to jam in thin cracks. I stretched out my first pair of Evolvs quite a bit because I didn’t size them down small enough — wasn’t used to the tightness. 5/10 Rating Jump to review May 27, 2025 · Best Climbing Shoes at a Glance. But also og Dragons are the greatest shoe of all time But honestly, for 90% of climbing, the best shoe is the one you like. It is very stiff, built for torquing in cracks and edging, and as a result has a flat, neutral last and full-length mid and outsoles. The Iati’s edging power comes partially from its slightly downturned and asymmetrical shape. I finally found a shoe that fits me perfectly after a few years of using shoes that just fit okay, and it feels like I unlocked a new superpower or something. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Soft shoes can be almost impossible to climb edging slabs - they are great for an outdoor boulder with no edges at all, or for smearing volumes, but not edging. I’m hunting for my third pair of climbing shoes, and I’d like to know what shoe is your all-around go-to climbing shoe! What pair of climbing shoes doesn’t hurt you too much to wear around the base of the crag, yet is technical enough to have you sticking every smear like gum and finessing every infinitesimally small toe hold? the scarpa vapor v is a fantastic shoe for intermediate climbing! if you wanted to go the la sportiva route you could try the kubos, i’ve never worn either of them but i have friends who have and loved the shoes— if you’re looking for more aggressive shoes and you’re primarily gym climbing la sportiva has the theories which are an Climbing Shoes – What are the best climbing shoes to edge? Some shoes work better for edging, and some don’t. TLDR: I am looking for intermediate but comfortable climbing shoes for indoor climbing with slight/medium downturn and low/medium pre-tensioning. Apr 16, 2025 · Despite its considerable price tag, the La Sportiva Katana Lace is an exceedingly popular shoe, and it only took a couple of pitches for our testers to understand why. As for rope climbing, my home gym is bouldering only, so I just don't have a lot of access, but I do indoor rope climb maybe once a year. plz give me some advices. Nov 11, 2023 · It adapts brilliantly to most styles of climbing, and although it’s not the best edging shoe I’ve ever tested, it smears and sticks to small features equally well. Broken in shoes can be more comfortable but they can also lose stiffness and structure. However, it's crucial to note that not all climbing shoes are created equal when it comes to edging. 5 years. Biggest selling point for me is the comfort though. 5 or 10 street shoe but I sometimes size my climbing shoes down 3 to 4 sizes. com Mar 10, 2025 · The best climbing shoes just keep getting better. I adore my katanas for all kinds of outdoor climbing- they edge really well and are decent crack shoes too. 8. So for the instincts I went with 45, the break in period was rough, but they fit like a beauty after about a month. I found the VS fit to be vastly different than the laces fit. my foot are quite wide ,and i dont want to spend over 125 usd. I generally use 3 pairs of shoes overall. More info provided below :) Hey guys, I am currently looking to update my La Sportiva Mythos (been climbing through three pairs in the past few years). It's always interesting to me how personal experiences can differ so much. All of that background to say If you had to recommend 1 shoe, you used every climbing session (2-4 times a week for me) for indoor bouldering what would it be? having a hard time picking a second pair of shoes for edging/ourdoor climbing. Learn good footwork. Section divider Ten Things You Need to Know About Climbing Shoes 1. Also, the best shoes are going to be the slones that fit your foot, so don't be afraid to try all the shoes you can find at your local climbing gym/shop! They should be snug, but it shouldn't hurt to wear them. 10 Asym's. Generally I was looking for a more comfortable, aggressive shoe, because I had sized way down on my first ever pair of climbing shoes (6. They are also a solid bouldering shoe for anything not overhanging. Perhaps the most important thing though is that the shoe fits your foot comfortably. ) The upper is made with 2mm of suede and lined with a comfortable neoprene sock. I’m currently using Tenaya Mastias for 1. I think adding a 2nd pair might round out my quiver of shoes. My first shoes were the Scarpa Origin, followed by the Evolv Kira, which I both loved dearly. Personally, I find XS Edge to be very stiff, so it's not as sensitive or as sticky as I'd like for steeper climbing. I used to change my shoes depending on what I was climbing but slowly and surely started to favour softer shoes more and more for everything - meaning my Drago LVs and Futuras. Aug 19, 2024 · A minor complaint—but putting on your climbing shoes shouldn’t be a multi-minute process. A super soft, super sticky downturned shoe for hard bouldering, a pretty stiff more neutral but still slightly downturned shoe for single pitch rope climbing and then a moderate super comfy shoe that is middle of the road, no turn turn, but somewhat soft, that I use for general warm up and climbing up until I feel I have a specific need for one of the TLDR: (1) Sensitive shoe - Scarpa Dragos LV; (2) Neutral shoe (in terms of sensitivity) - Tenaya Masais; (3) Edging/Stiff shoe - LaSpo Miuras VS (Women) Heads up for the long comment - I am a shoe fanatic (heels, sneakers, climbing shoes lol), and have been struggling for 4 years to find the perfect shoe. In soft shoes you get sole contact. It's a preference, comfort, and pairing with you as a climber. Out of the box, the Oasi is ideal for narrow feet, but like most Tenaya shoes, the Oasi uses ‘SXR dynamics’ which allows the shoe to adapt to varying foot sizes. I really can’t tolerate anything smaller than street shoe on any shoe I’ve tried. A good climber can send a stout 5. 9. Edit: Talked to a dude at the gym, tried on several different pairs of shoes before finally getting a pair of 5. Put these in your shoes. It'll happen some day, just hasn't yet. I'm in search of a second shoe, from a very begginer style Garra Kamae. The sticky 4mm Vibram XS Edge sole is designed for unrivaled edging capabilities, yet still allows you to foot jam and smear. Read on for our 2025 picks from La Sportiva, Scarpa, and more! Best Climbing Shoes for Edging SCARPA Boostic R. Best fitting shoe: maybe the Gomi? Had the least amount of heel space. Aug 19, 2024 · The shoe is stiff—expect reduced sensitivity, a long break-in, and middling smearing // The long, pointy toe may not be for everyone, especially those who like “grabbing”—one tester felt like the shoe put him on his outside edge/pinky-toe side to an occasionally distracting degree // Sizing seems to have changed slightly: Perhaps come down ~ half size for a precision fit, unless your Katana lace! I also tried and returned a pair of Miuras. Pretty much the only shoe that fit semi-comfortably, due to my wide, flat Hobbit-esque feet. Now I'm starting to feel that softer shoes give you better footwork by default regardless of your level. Hey guys, I'm currently looking at buying a new pair of shoes for purely indoor bouldering and this should be pretty straightforward but because I broke my leg 3 years back and suffered a bit of nerve damage in my left foot as well, I had to look extra hard for a right pair of shoes. I don’t have a problem… 😂. I've climbed 10+ pitch routes in both. S. Also, resoling is best done before the rand on the toebox starts to wear. Nov 11, 2023 · One of the best moderate La Sportiva climbing shoes ever made, the Katana is designed to do one thing brilliantly; Offer unrivaled edging precision. And yes we are scared of falling. 11 in almost any shoe laceup, velcro, slip on, rubber all hardly matter. lsud lumgn jxd pywv haoi ypiiii pcxghl vqty gsow emg