Hb offset nuts vs dmm offset nuts.

• Hb offset nuts vs dmm offset nuts Climbing on Gimmer yesterday, on one long pitch I got to the belay stance, placed three offsets for the anchor, then as my mate was coming up noticed that every single nut he was taking out was also an offset. The tapered design increases security in flaring placements, and DMM uses soft brass to reduce the chance of fracturing rock sending you on a big ride. They are amazing in eldo and great for Yosemite/toulomne. The DMM Offset Nuts offer placement opportunities when no other natural protection will fit. 40. i feel the surface area and horseshoe shape off the dmm really makes them grab, they are the most confidence inspiring nuts. I have on my rack: -standard BD stoppers Oct 9, 2015 · For me the ultimate value of these nuts shows in scrambling. The offset superlights appear to be cut from the extruded rock shape with one cut square , the other at an angle to give an offset tapering away from the concave side of the rock shape. I hung out with a professional guide in JTree for a bit who only had offsets for his climbing there, since the majority of cracks are flaring, water-made cracks. They also hired the woman who hand cast the bronze heads of the Brass Offsets. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for compre Jun 15, 2012 · Unfortunately when HB went bust, Offsets, which have a It wouldn't be right to start a review of the DMM Offsets without mentioning how they came into existence. 00 delivery DMM HB Brass Offset Set 0-6 . With that combo you can get placements pretty much anywhere. Where most climbing venues in the UK can be dealt with using standard nuts for the lower to medium grades, in scrambling we rarely come across decent nut placements. And those nuts are superlight. The only route I can remember being happy to have offset nuts at the gunks was Fly Again for the section right off the ledge. I honestly find a placement for my set of offsets more often than normal nuts May 3, 2015 · I've never used WC offset nuts, but the DMM ones strike me as being more 'proper' offset nuts, with the WC ones being like Rocks with an offset twist to them. But I personally do carry offset nuts on my climbing rack. Irregular is better. A couple thoughts on the choice: I have and *love* the DMM alloy offsets. £ 16. I often bring with me the WC Superlight rock, Superlight Offset Rock and DMM Peenut and it gives a full set of regular nuts with many options in offset cracks. These nuts are based on the famed HB Alloy Offsets and are produced using modified versions of the original HB dies. Personally I barely even place nuts anymore and most of my climbing partners also don’t place nuts. Hope that helps. Jan 7, 2019 · The Black Diamond Offset Micro is more expensive than most aluminum options, but they check out pretty much in line with, or slightly less expensive than, most other brass models. In situations were you have a slightly flaring crack, you can just place a nut lengthwise. Important WARNING for California residents View all DMM Nuts. Every size of Alloy Offset has a robust 12kN strength rating. 5kn #2; 6kn #3; 6kn #4; 8kn #5; 8kn Aug 27, 2017 · I think offsets are great. The offsets are back! DMM are producing the six sizes of the original and very popular HB Brass Offset Nuts. 19 in stock. Use in combination with normal nuts to find security in almost any crack. Features Apr 13, 2025 · Do you need offset nuts? Offset climbing nuts make an excellent complement to a rack of nuts. • 25% OFF Orders Over $125 • The DMM Offset Nut Set 7-11 is a full set of the Offset range, which offers placement opportunities when no other natural protection will fit. Mostly though, look at what you'll be climbing. I think it should be their next thing to do. The brass used for the head of the nut is soft enough to bite into placements, but hard enough to resist deforming and pulling through. I definitely place them more often than standard nuts. DMM HB Brass Offset Nuts for trad climbing Micro nuts for secure placements in flared cracks Asymmetrical tapered heads for irregular crack fitting Thicker wires for increased strength and durability Color-coded sizes for easy identification Lightweight design for minimal rack weight Brass and silicone construction for optimal performance Versatile placement range for various DMM Brass Offsets have long been recognized as the go-to choice for thin, hard-to-protect trad routes and clean aid lines. $5. 10. The Brass Offsets are based on the design of the original and popular HB Offset Nuts in a range of seven sizes, greatly increasing your placement options; particularly with flared cracks. Add 'em to your free climbing rack for a boost in strength in the small sizes (compared to other aluminum nuts). Jun 15, 2012 · Unfortunately when HB went bust, Offsets, which have a It wouldn't be right to start a review of the DMM Offsets without mentioning how they came into existence. Or is the sizing different for whatever reason? Apr 28, 2019 · For offset vs regular they just said they like having both for variety. 7-11 Der Klassiker ist zurück auf dem Markt! Die komplexe Form dieser Klemmkeile bietet vielseitige Legemöglichkeiten - vor allem wenn sonst nichts mehr passt helfen die Offset´s meist weiter! Offset nuts are considered more of a supplement, whereas standard ones are just that: standard. Apr 23, 2020 · I love my offset nuts, rarely rack the regular ones. Add 'em to your aid climbing rack to slot into Lost Arrow piton scars - faster and rock friendly! 1-3 sets absolutely necessary on most El Cap routes. Wires soldered directly into heads for strength DMM HB Alloy Offset - Nuts . DMM have tweaked the original design with a few modern improvements, such as a swage thats crimped on one side only, allowing one wire to run free and keep Sep 21, 2022 · The same applies to the original WC half nut and the dmm halfnut. Apparently a lot of placements are a little bit Rock shaped due to that being the most commonly used nut (perhaps more so in the past than now), which may affect your choice, but DMM DMM - Klemmkeilset HB Alloy Offset Nut Set No. Top quality, great selection and expert advice you can trust. Unfortunately, although perfectly functional, these are a semi-skimmed version of the DMM HB Alloy Offset. When i go to squamish i carry a lot more regular nuts and only a few small offsets (the yellow dmm is magic) but at index i barely carry regular nuts. For hard-to-protect aid routes or difficult free climbs. Size; Strength: #0; 2kn #1; 4. DMM HB Brass Offset Nuts for Sale, Reviews, Deals and Guides. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee The HB Brass Offset Nut from DMM is designed to fit into tiny flared cracks for protection on climbs with not much else! It's made from brass so it moulds slightly to the rock when it is loaded in a fall. May 3, 2015 · I've never used WC offset nuts, but the DMM ones strike me as being more 'proper' offset nuts, with the WC ones being like Rocks with an offset twist to them. Instantly I was DMM HB Brass Offset Nuts. The HB Brass Offsets micro wires developed a fanatical following and DMM were inundated with requests to bring them back. They chose not to change the numbering on the nuts, and instead just standardized the color scheme to match their lineup. Occasionally I climbed with friends who had a set, and they always seemed to work really well. 95. • Free Shipping on Orders $100 or More Within the U. com I’d always heard how awesome the old HB Offset nuts were, especially for flaring placements, but after the company went out of business, they were a lot harder to find. Oct 25, 2024 · The Alloy Offset from DMM is our review team's favorite overall nut for all-around trad climbing because of their versatility and how perfect they are where most other pieces of passive protection or cams are adequate at best. HB Brass Offsets are offset micro wires investment cast from silicon bronze and silver soldered onto stainless wires, these little units come in seven sizes. And these aren't placements where you want to be dicking around with gear so it was several unpleasant surprises and runouts on discovering the problem. 10 Positive, 0 Mixed & 0 Negative from Protection - Nuts - DMM Alloy Offsets Due to their complex offset shape the DMM Alloy Offsets offer placement opportunities when nothing else will fit, making them a vital part of your rack. For going smaller, should I get peenuts or HB brassies? For sizing I'm assuming the brassies line up pretty nicely with largest being 6 and smallest alloy being 7. 100 Tage Rückgaberecht. I need to fill in a gap, ideally DMM brass offset sizes 5 and 6. The head's asymmetrical taper gives us solid protection in flared cracks and pin scars, while its brass-silicone blend gives a serious bite that won't pull Aug 9, 2020 · Maybe someday DMM will update the Alloy Offset with 4 tapered curvy shapes and lighter design. Have DMM HBs 7-11. Offset nuts are used more often than normal nuts in most of the areas I climb. Their popularity is due to their unique shape, which allows climbers to protect pitches that are otherwise not viable. Jetzt bei Sportler kaufen! Use protection while climbing with the DMM HB Alloy Offset Nuts Set or other climbing gear from Campman! Fast and free shipping on orders over $50! The DMM HB Brass Offset nuts work excellently in pin scars and small flared cracks, where the double taper resists rotating or rocking. Wire recessed into top of nut for protection HB Brass Offsets are for small cracks when nothing else fits and offers passive protection in winter or wet conditions. Oct 31, 2024 · Most offset climbing nuts, like the DMM Alloy Offset, the DMM Peenut, and the Black Diamond Offset don't do as well in more parallel-sided cracks, but that's okay as most people are more likely to place a cam in these places anyway. In typical DMM fashion the've brought them into the 21st century with colour coded sizing, recessed wires and lightening holes in the largest two sizes. . Nuts with an offset taper protect cracks where normal nuts would not sit properly, such as flared cracks and peg scars. I was converted several years ago when I checked out the new-at-the-time DMM Offsets, which were a reinvention of the popular, but out of production, HB’s. Asymmetrical taper gives stable placements in offset cracks. A little history first: I bought my first HB Offset in I think 1991 – mainly because I didn't know any better. Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. Offset superlight and dmm/hb offsets are handed in both orientations. DMM HB Brass Offset. Features These nuts are based on the famed HB Alloy Offsets and were produced using modified versions of the original HB dies. DMM - HB Alloy Offset - Nut Free delivery to UK from £75 - Buy online now! 100 Day Return Policy Dispatch within 24h Expert advice *(Nut Technical Specifications can be found on the product pages)* **Alloy Offset Sets** - The DMM Alloy Offset Nut Set 7-11 contains one of each size of offset nut in the range from 7 through 11. Can get the BDs for half the cost of the DMM. Where slings, rope and big gear fails us we are usually presented with placements that rely on luck more than gear. 2. They are also the least expensive offset nut, and our review team thinks they're a screaming deal at half the cost of the DMM HB Brass Offsets. Designed to protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot, the DMM HB Alloy Offset stopper set in sizes 7–11 comprises asymmetrically tapered nuts with a robust 12 kN strength rating. View Product DMM Peenuts; DMM Brass IMP; DMM Offset Nuts; DMM Torque Nuts; Black Diamond Offset Stoppers; May 30, 2024 · Why We Like The DMM HB Brass Offset Set As we go up in grade, the placements get fewer, so we add the DMM HB Brass Offset Set to our rack to utilize the route's smaller, irregular cracks. When she passes on the nuts will disappear. Based in Golden, CO, we have been outfitting Colorado adventurers for over 30 years. Schnelle Lieferung. Gratis Rückversand. 7-11: Offset Nut Set No. In situations that are too flaring for that, just look for another spot or keep going. Add to basket; Sale DMM Micro Wallnuts Climbing Protection Set – 00-3/4 Based on the famed HB Alloy Offsets, these nuts have been produced using modified versions of the original HB dies. If money isn't an I guess it really depends on the type of climbing you do. Each face is slightly concave and soft enough to give more "bite" to the placement, and the addition of an aluminium swage, or keeper which holds the wires parallel but allows one wire to slide, means that the nut is loaded more evenly on both sides making The full set of Alloy Offset Nuts. 95 $ 25. Feb 7, 2021 · Looking to round out my rack with some small brass nuts. I have a set of small dmm offsets I got on sale and they’ve proven handy but not much more than regular nuts. I have heard that DMM is coming out with the Brass sizes as well. Review DMM Offset Nut Review. The wires they are mounted on are set into a recess to reduce wear, while larger sizes have holes that reduce weight. 99 £169. DMM have re introduced the Brass Offset nut once made by HB (Hugh Banner). </p> <p>These st Shop for DMM Nuts at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. The document has moved here. Aug 13, 2022 · Offset nuts were originally manufactured by "HB" until they went out of business ~2005. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for compre Jan 27, 2018 · But where you climb is a big factor too. Apparently a lot of placements are a little bit Rock shaped due to that being the most commonly used nut (perhaps more so in the past than now), which may affect your choice, but DMM DMM HB Brass Offset Nuts: To boldly go where no other nut will fit, these work in flaring cracks and seams and assorted challenging placements. 99 Original price was: £16. I don’t think they are totally necessary, especially if you buy a full rack of the DMM Wallnuts. Offset models are also generally harder to clean because they are asymmetric - they don't want to rotate upwards Apr 23, 2020 · I love my offset nuts, rarely rack the regular ones. £114. Apr 26, 2017 · All the #9 HB alloys fit them like a glove and all of the same-size DMM alloys were too big for those placements. The result means that the nut is loaded more even Dec 5, 2008 · Buy the DMM Offset Nuts from Backcountry. Their two distinct orientations include one that is offset and the other that's less tapered and more traditionally Jan 4, 2019 · Hugh Banner (HB Climbing) invented the concept of offset nuts BITD. 99. Wires are soldered directly into the nut head, allow So, the much awaited DMM Alloy Offsets, good, but in their current form far from perfect (see STOP PRESS at the end of this review). Sep 30, 2011 · Hmm, that might be perfect for one of these new Black Diamond Offset Nuts I was carrying … If you don’t have offset nuts on your rack, you haven’t really lived. While the peenuts aren't as low a profile as the brass offsets, since I presently have them as a tiny offset option, it sounds like having a tiny non offset option is probably best (maybe IMP 2/3/4, since that seems to cover the range from 'theoretically still can be sound Thanks for the more general input, but I am asking specifically about BD OFFSET MICRO STOPPERS (not the regular micros) VS HB/DMM BRASS offsets. Get a set you won't be sorry. Or is the sizing different for whatever reason? Unfortunately, although perfectly functional, these are a semi-skimmed version of the DMM HB Alloy Offset. Have basically narrowed things down to either the DMM HB Offsets or the DMM IMPs. 5. Related Searches. Thanks to their shape, they can be placed in unusually shaped cracks, where regular nuts wouldn’t typically fit. These Offset nuts are based on the famed HB Alloy Offsets and have colour coded sizing, recessed wires and lightening holes in the largest two sizes to reduce weight. $25. It was a nut, on sale, in the only climbing shop I knew at the time, so I bought it. out of 10. HB Alloy Offset #7: gold; HB Alloy Offset #8: blue; HB Alloy Offset #9: red; HB Alloy Offset #10: grey; HB Alloy Offset #11: turquoise; Imported. Since they are more specialized nuts, offset nuts do cost a bit more. S. The offset stoppers feature two tapers on each of the four sides, the idea being that this shape fits the realities of irregular cracks better than the square stopper designs. With a complex, offset head geometry these nuts will place securely in flared cracks where regular nuts and cams may not sit well. They have colour coded sizing, recessed wires and lightening holes in the largest two sizes. DMM HB Brass Offset Sets. 6 in stock. 14. Coloured coding anodizing coating that matches the DMM wallnut range to make them easy to pick out when you are gripped on a pitch. DMM have brought them up to date with colour coded sizing, recessed wires and lightening holes in the largest two sizes. The HB Alloy Offset from DMM are classic nuts for trad and big wall climbing. Graham Technical Equipment Retailers to the Sport and Professional markets for Caving, Climbing, Rope Access, Work at Height and Rescue since 1977 Irregular is better. The wires benefit from a colour coded alloy swage/keeper which helps with selection and also helps load the unit evenly. I’m climbing in red rock Small but mighty. 0 out of 5 stars. DMM Torque Nut Hexes Passive Protection for Rock Climbing - Gold - 3. Add to basket; Sale DMM 12mm Steel Klettersteig Screwgate Carabiner £ 16. DMM Pivot/Phantom HMS Set – Against Breast Cancer Limited Edition £ 48. The DMM ones are superb. 14 Current price is: £16. Just want to know how comparable the BDs are. Brass Offsets are crucial for protecting small flared cracks, often fitting perfectly where nothing else will go. Hoping that someone can help make my mind up. Our expert staff specializes in backcountry skiing, climbing, and mountai DMM HB Brass Offset Nuts DMM Brass Offsets have long been recognized as the go-to choice for thin, hard-to-protect trad routes and clean aid lines. £169. HB and DMM are essentially right next door to each other and when he died his wife, Maureen, transferred the design to DMM to carry on the tradition. DMM bought their assets and restarted the offset nut product lines. Mar 7, 2009 · My rack, without exception is my HB offsets(now DMM's) and a set of standard nuts. The addition of an aluminium swage keeps the wires parallel while still allowing one wire slide. Offsets were originally produced in both their brass micro wire, and alloy macro wire (a purely invented term!) forms by HB Climbing of Wales. Moved Permanently. fwgvsw ldoq kpgp jcvlu zqpwjeex osja vndmd tosmbe zope wlzwh qnnjk jji aqz gemkhz zes