Alpine ice grades – Sections of snow and ice or mixed conditions. Mar 3, 2006 · Technical Grade – Arabic Numerals This grade refers to the technical difficulties of the pitch and takes into account the angle of the ice-fall, whether the climbing is sustained or not, the nature of the fall’s formation, and the nature of its protection. Generally, ice climbs are graded based on the typical difficulty of the route when it is in condition. Water ice ratings are somewhat difficulty to apply to any given route. Every thing you need to know on climbing grades. Grade II: Half a day of technical climbing; Grade III: Most of the day will be required for the technical portion of the route. Chart: Ice Climbing & Mixed Climbing Grade; Grade Angle Ice Quality Protection Route Description; WI1: 40-60° Compact ice: Easy to protect: Low angle ice, minimal gear required: WI2: 60-70° Compact ice: Good protection possibilities: WI3: 70-80° Compact ice: Good protection possibilities: Alternating flatter and steeper passages: WI4: 80 approximately 1 generous numeral higher than equivalent Water Ice or M -grades. If full ice grade is given, the nature of these undertakings is made clear, since Goulotte Chèré is II/WI4 while Cordier Couloir is V/AI1. Graduates of this course should feel comfortable in a single-pitch ice setting when climbing with a more experienced mentor. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. However, in practice, Water Ice is harder and more time consuming. Individual, simple climbing sections. They range from AI1 to AI6. Understanding the different grading systems & the factors that affect grades will help you make informed decisions & tackle routes that match your skill level & ambitions. WI2: Consistent 60 degree ice with possible bulges; good protection. Ice climbing in the lower 48 States and most of Europe would be rated as WI. Jun 23, 2024 · The AI Scale is used to grade ice climbs that are found in alpine environments. The average within them is the V 5 which could be seen as a benchmark grade V. For example, the Couturier Couloir on Aiguille Verte is only about 55 degrees, which would equate to a Scottish grade II gully in technical difficulty. WI-1: General angle: 50 degrees. Grade IV and above get an additional grade for pitches within the climb. Grade VII: Remote big walls climbed in alpine style. com Water Ice, Alpine Ice, and Canadian Ice Technical Grades: Ice climbing ratings are highly variable by region and are still evolving. Alpine ice extent at the Last Glacial Maximum (LGM) with major ice Alpine Ice Grades Consistent 60 degree ice with possible bulges;. Rock sections up to VS. The grade of different systems take into consideration different In the US ice grades fall into three categories; Water Ice, which is seasonal and often shifting in difficulty; Alpine Ice, which is permenent ice found on glaciers or high altitudes; and Mixed Ice, which is a mix of ice and rock. theCrag does so by using an open ended and fine-grained internal grade conversion system with more than 500 grade levels allowing to reflect the subtleties of most known grade systems and their conversion from and into each other. Alpine Grades The French Alpine grading system encompasses the technical difficulty, length and level of commitment required for the climb. Challenging terrain, steep rocky slopes, snow covered glaciers and firn fields with danger of slipping. Alpine Rock routes have a rock (Ewbank) grade. Water Ice, Alpine Ice, and Canadian Ice Technical Grades: Ice climbing ratings are highly variable by region and are still evolving. Ice/Mixed routes are shorter ‘crag’ routes with a water ice and/or a mixed grade. Canadians often drop the WI symbol and hyphenate the technical grade after the Canadian commitment grade’s Roman numeral (example: II-5). Feb 10, 2009 · On alpine pure rock grades (eg in the Aiguilles Rouges) the technical difficulty will be relatively higher for a given grade. Grade indications are from the American Alpine Journal grade comparison chart. Ice Climbing Ratings Mixed climbing routes can cover a broad range of types. – Short rock or ice sections up to Grade III. 5. Glacier travel is complex and serious. The most commonly used ice climbing system in the United States grades climbs using numbers 1 through 7, although it is very likely that other numbers will be added as the sport continues to be pushed. 1. The WI acronym implies seasonal ice; AI is often substituted for year-around Alpine Ice and may be easier than a WI Apr 21, 2019 · The Most Common System – Water Ice and Alpine Ice Grades . 2. D: difficult: difficile: Well stated in Alpine Select, "Climbs at this grade are significant undertakings for experienced climbers. Jan 23, 2016 · "Water Ice and Alpine Ice Grades: Ice climbing ratings are highly variable by region and are still evolving. This is common on ice-falls and goulottes like Rappelle toi que tu es un homme. Additional risk indicators include: Aug 30, 2021 · Water Ice Climbing grades — WI3+, WI6, etc. a large frozen icicle, frozen alpine couloirs, or frozen water cascade) and a dry-tooling route (i. Some mixed climbing routes are combinations of an ice climbing route (i. Grading ranges from WI1 (easy) to WI7 (extremely difficult), with optional modifiers like "+" for intermediate grades. A basic level of technical expertise for safety is required. Exposed. Introductory ice climbs will be around WI2, while advanced ice climbers will tackle WI5 and above. This makes it less likely to shatter and more homogeneous to climb. F to D routes are thus often graded using a combination of alpine grade and commitment grade while harder climbs are given an ice or mixed grade and a commitment grade, with no indication of the global alpine grade. In general, theCrag displays grades as they are entered and in the area specific context. Sections of very steep snow and ice at angles over 50 degrees. The NCCS can apply to big rock as well as mountaineering, which makes it more widely known to rock climbers. Mountaineering boots. Many alpine ice climbs belong in this grade, barring the appearance of really frightening bergschrunds or extended mixed terrain. The results of selections in the Route Finder are displayed on the Route Index page. Grade VI: Two or more days of hard technical climbing. Suitable only for experienced mountaineers who can be self-sufficient, previous May 31, 2020 · Ice climbing ratings increase numerically and with a ‘+’ or ‘-‘, but with a prefix describing the type of ice. See full list on ascentionism. Walking up ice where crampons are necessary. Apr 29, 2024 · This implies seasonal ice versus year-around ice that is often abbreviated with AI for Alpine-Ice. But because it is 1000m it get Alpine grade D. WI refers to water ice, and AI stands for alpine ice. Technical grade 5 is relatively straightforward, 6 is somewhat technical mixed climbing, and 7 and 8 are much more intricate, including harder snowed -up rock. Secure terrain assessment and very good navigation skills. The following descriptions approximate the average systems, at least as used by North Americans. Jun 1, 2015 · I think you answered your own question. I had wanted to climb the Hinterer Maralmfall for the past three years. AI1 is easy, low-angled glacier ice, while AI2 introduces steeper, more complex terrain. Moderate, low-angled with possible bulges. The prefix can be either AI, Alpine Ice, or WI,Water Ice. 6 days ago · Understanding climbing grades is essential for safe & successful rock, ice & alpine climbs. Water ice grades describe the difficulty of climbing performed entirely on ice. Our Ultimate Guide to Climbing Grades provides it all! Sep 5, 2021 · Water Ice climbing grades — WI3+, WI6, etc. 7 (or the equivalent snow/alpine grade) Grade V: The route will likely require an overnight stay in the middle of the technical portion. Due to the complexity of routes in alpine climbing, the "overall" grade denotes the general level of seriousness of the route to which is added additional specific grade(s) for any rock climbing (usually the French, American, or UIAA grades for free climbing, and the A-grade for aid climbing), ice climbing (the WI-grade), and mixed climbing European water ice grades range from 1-7 and are offset from Scottish grades by roughly one notch, hence a solid technical 5 in Scotland equates roughly to grade 4. Climbs are difficult, sustained, and/or serious. The WI acronym implies seasonal ice; AI is often substituted for year-around Alpine Ice and may be easier than a WI Alpine routes have either a commitment or a Mt Cook grade. Because water ice is not a static medium like rock, the conditions of a route are constantly in flux. The conditions in the valley were very good with regards to the amounts of ice on routes, however the temps were on the cold side, so the ice was at time brittle and hard. As a result, a separate system has been developed. WI3: Sustained 70º with possible long bulges of 80º-90º; reasonable rests and good stances for placing screws. Mixed ratings are similar, but with a prefix of M. Alpine Ice tends to be ‘flatter’ and will often have some snow frozen into it. The ability to protect the routes is important. (And so, off topic, doing an "alpine", say, TD pure rock route doesn't count as a TD alpine grade in one's profile on here in my book. T5 Challenging Alpine walking: Often without a path. ) Previous Alpine climbing or high altitude experience is normally required unless technically very confident beyond the grades below. Water Ice Grading System Water ice routes typically reform each season as compared to alpine ice which is more consistent from year to year and exist and higher elevations. 7. The WI acronym implies seasonal ice; AI is often substituted for year-around Alpine Ice and may be easier than a WI Apr 27, 2025 · Ice is an ephemeral medium, so ice climbing grades can vary widely from the grades given for the climb & the actual climbing experience. Feb 2, 2021 · Grade IV - Steep ice with short vertical steps or long pitches up to 70º, or mixed routes requiring advanced techniques. Grade IV: A full day of technical climbing, generally at least 5. If you are preparing for an expedition overseas of grade 2A and above, you should become familiar with this grading system, as it will help you assess your experience in relation to the requirements for each trip. Ice climbing routes are graded based on factors like steepness, ice quality, and thickness. The WI acronym implies seasonal ice; AI is often substituted for year-around Alpine Ice and may be easier than a WI grade with the same number. WI-2: General angle: 60 degrees. Mar 22, 2022 · Mountaineering, also referred to as mountain climbing or alpine climbing (when it takes place in the Alps), is the sport of traversing a mountain. Jan 28, 2022 · Grade III: Most of a day for the technical portion. French grade 5 might be encountered. Grade 3A – A climb with an elevation of 2,500 to 6,500 meters (8,000 to 21,000 feet). . Check out our range of classes to develop confidence on the ice, or bring your skating skills to the next level. It often involves going through different types of terrains and combining skills from other disciplines (like rock climbing & ice climbing), with the goal of reaching the summit and returning down safely. This scale takes into account not only the difficulty of the ice itself, but also the overall technical difficulty of the climb, including factors such as route finding, exposure, and objective hazards. The easiest ice for which a belay rope would be used. The French Alpine grading system is unique in that rather than quantifying the difficulty numerically, it uses a broader “adjectival” system to record difficulty, length, altitude, and seriousness of the climb all in one grade. Snow and ice can reach 50-70° and WI4+. Water Ice. For example a grade V climb might look like V 4, V 5 V 6 or even V 7. Learn to Skate at Alpine Ice We offer programs for skaters of all ages and abilities. Alpine experience. Grade VII: Multi-pitch routes with long sections of vertical or thin ice, or mixed routes with lots of highly technical climbing. Good Alpine experience also in high Alpine Feb 5, 2010 · The conditions in the valley were very good with regards to the amounts of ice on routes, however the temps were on the cold side, so the ice was at time brittle and hard. On easier routes good weather and chewy ice make life feel great, but as soon as you hit French 5 you’re on Scottish 6 terrain and need a cool head plus total confidence in your Universal grade conversion Back to contents . TD (très difficile = very difficult): TD routes are very serious alpine climbs with difficult rock climbing up to French 6. WI1: Low angle ice; no tools required. Climbing grades defined - Mixed Grades, Ice Grades, Aid ratings, Protection Ratings, Commitment ratings. Both ice climbing and alpine climbing use this system. Canadian climbers will either use the same system or drop the WI in favor of the Canadian Commitment Grade (similar to the NCCS but takes into account snow travel and – Rock sections up to Grade II and ice sections up to Grade II. This is because the overall objective dangers can vary dramatically on alpine routes with similar technical rock and ice climbing grades. Alpine Ice Grades (AI) Alpine Ice Grades (AI) differ from the WI grades as they take into account the overall difficulty of the climb, not just the ice’s steepness. The following descriptions approximate the average systems. The WI acronym implies seasonal ice; AI is often substituted for year-around Alpine Ice and may be easier than a WI Jan 4, 2025 · WI (Water Ice): Grades range from WI1 (low-angle ice) to WI8 (vertical or overhanging, highly technical). From www. Beginner level climbers are introduced to the basics of ice climbing, crampons, ice tools, ice screws, ice bollards, belaying, knots and hitches as well as to top-roping techniques. Grade V - Sustained ice to 80º or mixed climbs with linked hard moves. Prefixes distinguish the ice type: AI for alpine ice and WI for waterfall ice. Whilst each IFAS grade can imply certain grades of rock, ice, or mixed climbing difficulties, the UIAA warns against assuming an IFAS grade always aligns with specific rock and ice climbing grades. Water Ice (WI) grades are usually applied to shorter pure ice routes, but may be useful to grade the technical difficulty of ice on alpine routes. need to pass a rock overhang or rock roof to get to the frozen ice part); these routes have both a full mixed climbing grade (M-grade) and a full ice climbing [21] [22] WI-grade is for "seasonal" hard ice; an AI prefix is used instead for "alpine ice", which is year-round and usually firmer, more stable, making AI-grade routes slightly easier than WI routes. Grade VI and above routes have exceptional 4. net. Water Ice and Alpine Ice are on the same scale -- though alpine ice tends to be a little easier at the grade AAC Publications International Grade Comparison Chart International rock climbing classification systems are shown in the chart at the right, and below is Ice Climbing Grading. Grade VI - Vertical ice and highly technical mixed routes. Easy, low-angled ice. General angle: 50 degrees. Ice Climbing Grading. The maximum ‘obligatory’ grade will determine the minimal alpine grade given to a route as it determines the minimum level required to overcome Water Ice, Alpine Ice, and Canadian Ice Technical Grades: Ice climbing ratings are highly variable by region and are still evolving. Oct 8, 2012 · Conversion to Alpine grades are very difficult because Alpine grading factors in commitment level a lot more and does have a tech grade. e. Grade V: Typically requires an overnight on the route. Grade IV: A full day of technical climbing, generally at least with a difficulty of 5. Mixed Grades: Indicated as M1–M12, for routes combining ice and rock climbing techniques. " theCrag automatically converts grades between different grade systems according to the tables below. These grades help climbers choose routes that match their skills and goals, ensuring a safe and enjoyable experience. Easy angled ice that has no particularly hard sections. Grade 2B – A climb with an elevation of 2,000 to 6,000 meters (6,500 to 20,000 feet). Grade VI: Vertical ice and highly technical mixed routes. Alpine ice and other winter routes can range from a nice hike, to a technical ice pitch, to unprotected mixed climbing to bowling alley depending on conditions. Oct 5, 2022 · Water Ice grades; Grade Description; WI1: Low angle grade, no tools required: WI2: 60° grade, tools required in certain spots, good protection available for placing screw: WI3: 70° grade means sustained climbing with good protection available for placing screw and good rest spots: WI4: 80° grade means steep or vertical ice, some rest spots: WI5 French Alpine Grades. The alpine grade is mainly determined by the maximum technical difficulty on the route that cannot be avoided (without using aid climbing techniques), either on rock, snow, ice, or mixed terrain. researchgate. Water Ice and Alpine Ice Grades: Ice climbing ratings are highly variable by region and are still evolving. There are two variations on ice climbing grades, with both a “water ice” grade, which approximately describes the difficulty on season icefalls and an “alpine ice” grade, which more precisely describes climbing on permanent ice. WI2: Consistent 60º ice with possible bulges; good protection. Grade VIII and above: The hardest routes in Scotland. Ice can reach 80° and WI5+. (Alpine AD Scottish Grade 2/3 Rock severe). Due to conditions and orientation of the fall, it had not formed with any margin of safety until this The Alaska grades are also geared towards mountaineering as well as Scottish winter grades, New Zealand alpine grades, and Canadian winter commitment grades. Comparing alpine grades. WI4: Continuous 80º ice fairly long sections of 90º ice broken up by occasional The WI acronym implies seasonal ice; AI is often used to designate the permanent ice found in high mountains and an Alpine Ice grade may be easier than a WI grade with the same number. Due to how widely the character of ice can vary from year to year, water ice grades should be regarded as approximate. Our Complete Guide to Ice Climbing Grades describes each level of difficulty. Grade V: Sustained ice to 80o or mixed climbs with linked hard moves. Alpine Ice Grades. the alpine grade is mainly determined by the maximum technical difficulty on the route that cannot be avoided (without using aid climbing techniques), either on. Grade III Gullies containing ice or mixed pitches up to 75 degrees, normally with one substantial pitch or several lesser ones. Comparing alpine grades between different grading systems is a classic example of comparing apples and oranges. The following descriptions approximate the average systems, at least as used by North Americans. The grades are meant to be the same. Meaning that for example if you look at a crag in Australia you will most likely see sport and trad climbing grades displayed in Ewbanks and bouldering grades in V-scale. This tends to be even more subjective that traditional grades, but lends itself well to the Water Ice, Alpine Ice, and Canadian Ice Technical Grades: Ice climbing ratings are highly variable by region and are still evolving. Due to conditions and orientation of the fall, it had not formed with any margin of safety until this An easy descent can no longer be expected, and the climb may be physically demanding. Route indexes. yyhpobmxkvpynzlljzjwapvvrehqbizeumlddqebqnnifveifmafpnccpygpfdcelehnuzx